Musings from Antique Origins

Snippets of Mysore

2012-01-27T07:31:00.000-08:00

The Mysore Palace

Despite one’s age and the yearsof experience, an official trip could give an unsettled feeling to a personwanting to take time off to make some personal visits. Since my work involved aforenoon session of last Sunday, the afternoon came handy for some briefwanderings in the city of Mysore.

I have always loved Mysore for a variety ofreasons. Just like our own Travancore, Mysoretoo had been a princely state with many exotic aspects attached with it. PaulBrunton, the British mystic and traveler had been a personal friend of NalvadiKrishnaraja Wodeyar the Maharajah who reined Mysore between 1902 and 1940. A scholar andspiritual master, the Maharajah, had been eulogized greatly by Paul Brunton, inthe dedication of his book, “The Quest of the Over-self”, through the followingwords; the clear Hellenic mind of Platoforesaw that, “the world can only be saved if the Kings become Philosophers orif the Philosophers become kings.” The love which everyone in the state bearsfor you reveals how true those words are!”. I read this remarkable book three decades backwhile at the University at the instance of a senior friend, Dr. Mohan who wasmy room mate in the hostel and who may have now retired as a senior scientistfrom the ARS- Agricultural Research Service-. Raja Ravi Varma’s association with the Mysoreroyalty, Diwan-ship of Sir AlbionRajkumar Banerji of the ICS both in Cochin andMysore, Khedda-the unique trapping of the wildelephants- etc were subjects of great interest to me. Besides, the unique palaces and the magnificentzoo attracted visitors to Mysoreover the years. Last but not the least, being a foodie, the sumptuousvegetarian dishes of Mysorewith succulent accompaniments, have always been a great temptation.


Gandaberunda -The mythological bird with two heads, royal emblem of the Wodeyars-

The Mysore Palace

The majesty of the palace stillattracts a lot of visitors local, national and international. Inside one of thehalls of the palace, I found a very friendly policeman who came forward toexplain certain nuances of a fine painting. As with most of the policemenanywhere over the world in the under-developed and developing countries, he tooexpected a baksheesh. On my query –not to get caught on the wrong side of the law- as to whether it would be inorder if I tip him, he politely replied that I might do it if it pleased me andI readily obliged. Inside the palace photography is not prohibited provided youdo it with the help of a mobile phone. You are not allowed to use the Camerainside the Palace.

Horse carriages in front of the palace

Visitors

Inside the palace

Painting of Jayachamaraja Wodeyar (r.1940-50) on his "thread ceremony day"

The vendor of peacock feathers

Painting of Krishnaraja Wodeyar IV inside the palace

Another view of the palace

The Jaganmohan Palace

The place offers more to aconnoisseur interested in paintings, objects of art and different antique androyal pieces. The Raja Ravi Varmagallery where more than a dozen of his paintings are displayed obviouslywarrants more care. It was appalling to note that paintings like, Jatayu Vadha, Harischandra in Distress andSrikrishna liberating his parents show signs of total neglect with thecanvas being torn and unattended.

In front of Jaganmohan Palace

Visit to the house of Mr.A.C.Lakshmana

It was a pleasant experience tocall on -at his house- Sri.Lakshmana with whom I had made acquaintance throughthis blog. He is a senior civil servant retired from the Indian Forest Serviceas a Secretary to the government of Karnataka. A wise man of great erudition,he is also a good conversationalist. He is keeping himself very busy attending to his NGO work advising, helping and guiding the farmers of Periyapatnam andHunsur to adopt various practices toincrease their yield through scientific farming. In between he has found timein writing his memoirs more like a service story which may be published soon. Ihave already made a booking for a copy of this book and, knowing him, am surethat it will make great reading.

Mr.A.C.Lakshmana IFS (Rtd)

The cold climate of Mysore is one thing withwhich you will certainly fall in love. With some warm clothing on, an outing inthe evening to one of the local restaurants could be very enjoyable with theaccompaniments of some Akki Rotis.You may as well go for the usual VadaSambar which has some sweet tingling which Mysore only could provide.

Tripunithura, South India.

63^rd Republic Day.

Bidding adieu to 2011

2011-12-31T10:17:00.000-08:00

It was in December 1987 that wemoved to Kochi from Trivandrum. I was then a dashing young bladeand the branch manager of a nationalized bank in Ernakulum. I was also the father of a baby girl,who graduated in Architecture with honours from the University of Nottinghama fortnight ago.

Along with Madhu, my bosom friendof 4 decades, we went to Taj Malabar hotel in Wellington Islandto welcome the New Year. Those days, IndianRupee was still strong, and was trading at Rs 14.80 per US Dollar. Goodsalaries were only in four digits and hence the New Year dinner at Taj was onlyRs 250 per head. I remember that south Indian film star Kamal Hasan was thereto welcome the New Year. English writer Jayasree Mishra (Remember, Ancient Promises) known to us as Raniwas there in resplendent dress and I remember that she won a prize for that onthat night.

Since then, much water has flowedunder the bridges all over the country and the world. Every New Year was in adifferent place, some very low key and some quite loud.

Today, I and Sindhu are at home.Unni too is here. The lad in his 12^th class has to move too to theUniversity by next June. Life has to go on.

Against the big backdrop of space,time and lives of millions of species of living things, what is so importantabout a new year? Frankly, I do not know. But it is a good time to introspectand make life more simple and enjoyable by taking life lightly and being kindto every little living thing.

Tripunithura,

South India,

31^st December 2011.

Corruption, Punishment and Justice

2011-10-31T07:57:00.000-07:00

Of late, any news about the corruptionin public life in Indiais drawing much attention. Hitherto, most of us had resigned to our fates andconsoled ourselves believing that the institutionalized form of corruption ishere to stay and the so called intelligentsia can not do much about it. Thanksto people like Anna Hazare, Vinod Rai, Julian Assange and innumerablefunctionaries in various places like the judiciary, our pessimism is graduallywaning like snow in the sunshine.

What is probably desired in India is perhapsnot to introduce new laws but the implementation of the existing laws with aheavy hand to ensure punitive action. Ofcourse, many modifications in existing laws may be required for this.

Last week, the hedge fund tycoon RajRajaratnam of the Galleon Group who was convicted by a court in US for 11 yearsin prison was also made to pay 63 Million US Dollars as penalties.

There are additional civilpenalties of US Dollar 97 Million also being claimed from him by the US Securitiesand Exchange Commission. Personally, Ifeel that similar penalties being charged on corrupt persons should be theorder of the day so that ill- gotten money can be best controlled.

It is very amusing to read aboutbails being granted to corrupt officials who have amassed millions of rupees byexecuting bonds of a few thousands of rupees. The news pertaining to a verycorrupt couple in the IAS is a case in point.

Anybody making ill-gotten wealthshould realize that neither can he enjoy the funds thus created nor can he breathefresh air outside the prison if he makes money by corrupt methods. His wealththough invested in the names of family members should be confiscated by theexchequer with which much developmental work can be undertaken. Justice delayedtantamount to justice denied and hence the wheel of justice has to roll faster.

Let the government take a leafout of the above example of USjudicial system and come out with a Lokpal bill which should be welcomed by allexcept the corrupt people in our public life.

My friend Jens Nordlunde, a Dane by birth and settled in Switzerlandrecently wrote to me,

“I once read that,although corruption is almost unknown in Denmark, thatin the 17^th and 18^th century it was widely spread. Thegovernment made a law punishing corruption harshly, butthey also made sure that people not corrupted enforced this law.

It is a verydifficult problem to solve – but most important to solve it, for the people andfor the country. “

I cannot agree with him more.

Tripunithura,South India.

31^st October 2011.

Ananda Ranga Pillai and the French Pondicherry

2011-09-25T06:17:00.000-07:00

As I walked through the Ranga Pillai Street in Pondicherry, I asked my colleague if he knew the reason why the street was so named. Thankfully, he had heard of this colourful personality Ananda Ranga Pillai of French India who lived during the tumultuous times of the mid 18^th century when both the English and the French tried hard to have its foothold over South India.

18th century engraving of French Pondicherry

Ananda Ranga Pillai (1709-61) was the first secretary and adviser of the French East India Company in Pondicherry during the early decades of the 18^th century. He was the “Dubash” or the translator and commercial representative of the French Governors, notably that of Joseph Francois Dupleix with whom he had a very personal rapport throughout his life. His private diary written in Tamil and covering the period from 1736 to 1761 is an amazing record of personal, historical, political and social matters during those momentous years of South Indian history.

We should be thankful to two French men Gallois Montbrun and Edouard Ariel (1818-1854) who had found the diaries of Ananda Ranga Pillai written in Tamil and which they got translated into French. Gallois Montbrun’s copy was used by Father Price and Rangachari to translate the diaries to the English language towards the end of the 19^th century. Of the 12 volumes in English, 3 were published by them before 1914. H.Dodwell subsequently completed the next 9 volumes. The copies done by E.Ariel, who died at the age of 36 in 1854, are now preserved at the Bibliothèque Nationale François Mitterrand in Paris. Unfortunately, the original diaries written by Pillai are lost for ever.

Ananda Ranga’s father, Thiruvenkitam Pillai was a merchant in Madras who came to settle down in Pondicherry at the instance of his brother in law, Nainiya Pillai who was courtier and agent of the French there for which M.Herbert was the Governor. The business flourished and they became quite prosperous when Nainiya Pillai was imprisoned by Herbert on some flimsy accusations and he died in prison. His son, Guruva Pillai, a determined young man out to prove the innocence of his father, escaped to Madras with others and he traveled to Paris and had an audience with the Regent, the Duke of Orleans.

Guruva Pillai who embraced Christianity was made a Chevalier of St.Michael and was appointed the head of all Indian subjects of the French at Pondicherry and returned with great success. In the mean time, Herbert had been recalled and the new Governor welcomed back Thiruvenkitam Pillai and other wealthy merchants to Pondicherry. Guruva Pillai died without issues followed by Thiruvenkitam Pillai in 1726.

This is the place that belonged to Ananda Ranga Pillai

M.Lenoir, who had taken charge as the new Governor employed Ananda Ranga Pillai, a young and ambitious businessman in his father’s slot and later appointed him the native head of the French factory at Porto Novo manufacturing clothes. Ananda Ranga Pillai started his own trading posts and became a successful and wealthy trader. M.Dumas, who took over from Lenoir too held Pillai in high esteem but his star began to rise further with the arrival of Dupleix as Governor in 1742. Having known the father-son duo during his earlier tenure as an official in Pondicherry, Dupleix appointed Ananda Ranga Pillai as a Courtier or Chief Dubash in 1747.

As Chief Dubash, Ananda Ranga Pillai extended yeoman service to Dupleix with whom he seemed to have a very special relationship as could be observed from his notes. Dupleix indeed counted upon the advice of Pillai on many matters though they had their fair share of differences too. The greed of Dupleix especially that of his wife comes out clearly through the diaries. All the weaknesses of Dupleix as a human being and all his strengths as a Governor of the French are depicted by Pillai with consummate ease through his observations. The financial and political power Pillai enjoyed under the French rule also are visible from his recordings.

Joseph Francois Dupleix (1697-1763)- Governor General of French India-

We also come to know of the personal rapport he had with Maharajah Anizhom Thirunal Marthanda Varma, the founder and of modern Travancore as also with many rulers that included Chanda Sahib (Nawab of Carnatic between 1749-52) the Nizam of Hyderabad and others from erstwhile southern principalities.

A random selection of his notes with references to Travancore is given below to enable the readers to have a glimpse of his style and his eye for details. These notes unfold history from the vantage point of a remarkable person who witnessed history not as a bystander but as an active player who did his part remarkably well in a time of glorious uncertainties. Pillai died in 1761 just four days before the British occupied Pondicherry in a devastating battle with the French.

Those interested can read more direct from the twelve volumes of “The private diary of Ananda Ranga Pillai “, some of which are available online with Internet Archives.

A period hotel on Ranga Pillai Street

By the beach of Pondicherry with Mr.Pandurangan.

Saturday, 3^rd March 1741

This forenoon at 11, Naranappaiyan, an, envoy from the Raja of Travancore brought a letter, accompanied by presents, to the Governor. He came by land as far as Karikal, and taking a boat thence, arrived at Pondicherry. A salute of seven guns was fired when he delivered the gifts and letter to the Governor. The latter, after perusing the communication, conversed with him for a while, presented him with a turban and shawl, and bade him farewell. The envoy took leave, and repaired to his lodgings.

Monday, 11th April 1746

At 6 this evening, the Governor received a letter from Karikudi, to the following effect: A ship called the Pondicherry Marchand and commanded by M.Puel, proceeded from Mascareigne to Mahe. Instead of returning to Mascareigne, as the original intention appears to have been, she was cruising off Kolachel and the neighborhood of that port. The Raja of Travancore sent for M. Puel, and suggested to him that as news had been received that two or three English ships were making for those parts, he ought to consult the safety of his charge, and depart for some more secure locality. M. Puel then took his vessel to Karikal, and having discharged the cargo of firewood with which she was laden, and her ballast, sailed for the Danish port of Tranquebar, where he anchored. Whilst in the roads there, the ship was surrounded by five English men-of-war, which engaged her during the whole night. M. Puel, seeing that he could not cope with the enemy, ran his craft on shore, landed with his men, and blew her up. The Danish Governor commanding the fort of Tranquebar saw what occurred, and enraged at the manifestation of hostility by the English in a friendly port, ordered a few cannon shot to be fired at their ships, which returned the fire, killing a gunner, and wounding two of the garrison. The Danish Governor, seeing this, exclaimed:

“We are weak; they are strong. Let it be. God is just. An inquiry will surely be made into this matter in Europe." So saying, he wrote a letter to M. Paradis conveying intelligence of what had taken place.

The Governor of Pondicherry is .reported to have said on receipt of this news.

“M.Puel has done well to run his ship ashore, to escape capture by the English. When the circumstances of this matter become known in detail to the King of Denmark, he will surely demand satisfaction of the King of England for the hostile attack made by the English in a friendly port, and for the killing of a gunner, and the wounding of two men in the Danish service. The people of one nation cannot attack those of another, although they are their enemies, when the latter are protected by the flag of a neutral power. If such a thing happens, it is equivalent to a declaration of war by the first nation against the third. If the former of these, however, repudiates any hostile intention, it is bound to decapitate the offenders. This being the law of Europe, there is scarcely a doubt that the head of Commodore Barnet will be struck off."

Two or three respectable Frenchmen, who overheard these remarks of the Governor, communicated them to me. M. Le Maire, M. Cornet, and two or three other Frenchmen told me that other matters will be made known when M. Puel, the captain who blew his ship up, comes to Pondicherry.

Tuesday 4^th October 1746

I next went to the Governor's house, and some time after my arrival a Palmyra-leaf letter from Vala Martanda Raja, of Travancore, and a letter from the French priests residing in that country were delivered to the Governor. The former of these contained the following:

“Some time ago, two of your ships anchored in the roads here, and we saw to the repair of these. The Dubash of Mahe was then here. A report is current that a fleet of nine sail on its way from France had an engagement with six of the English off Negapatam, but that the latter escaped. We desire to be informed in writing whether your fleet will reach our dominions in October."

As Tanappa Mudali desired me to go with him to the Governor, to interpret the letter, I went. When he began to translate it, the Governor interrupted him, saying that he knew what it was about, because the other letter had already given him the information, and therefore that he need not interpret it. Tanappa Mudali attempted to proceed, and the Governor again said that he was quite aware of the contents of the letter. Nevertheless he persisted in going on, on which the Governor expressed his annoyance, and thereupon Tanappa Mudali withdrew.

8 February 1747

Five ships which lay in the roads were despatched to-day, on an expedition. Two of them, when at Madras, encountered a storm, and had been dismasted. They were brought to Pondicherry, and refitted. The third was the St. Louis. The remaining two were under the command of M. Dordelin, and had arrived from Acheen. All five were fitted out as men-of-war, and were supplied with the necessary munitions and stores. Their objects of mission was to engage and take the English ships, which were said to be cruising on the Malabar coast, off Anjengo and Tellicherry; the capture of these places, also, forming one of the objects of the expedition. The captains of the ships were directed to take on board 6,000 Angrias, * who had offered their services. The Raja, of Travancore was also written to, asking him to procure the assistance of the Angrias*, and the letter was carried by one of the ships. The squadron set sail from Pondicherry, about one watch before sunrise.

This name was applied to the followers of a noted piratical chieftain—one Toolajee Angria—who, following, at the time that Ranga Pillai wrote, in the footsteps of both his father and step-brother, had long been a constant source of trouble and danger to the sea trade of the Malabar coast, and of frequent annoyance to the servants of the East India Company. His misdeeds, and those of his people, were finally put an end to, in February 1756, when his last stronghold, Gheria, was captured, and his 6eet destroyed, by a combined sea and land force under the command of Admiral Watson and Colonel Olive, and he, being made a prisoner, was handed over to the Mahrattas, who took good care that he should do no further harm.

8 March 1747

On Monday the 6th March or 26th Masi, I wrote a letter, in the name of the Governor, to Maharaja Vanji Vala Martanda Varma of Travancore, and despatched it by his agent Kunti Nayakkan. A copy of it is in the file of papers with Madananda Pandit.

October 25, 1748

When I went to the Governor's this morning, he gave the letter for Vanji Vala Martanda Varma, Raja of Travancore, to the two Christians waiting and sent them away, telling me to give them 20 rupees. I got the money from Parasurama Pillai, gave it to the Christians, and sent them off.

18 September 1751

This evening a letter came from Mahe saying that, in spite of all assistance afforded to the Raja of Kolattanad, the English and the Ikkeri people were helping his enemies who had become very powerful, so that more troops were needed.

There are indeed various other more interesting details in the diaries of Ananda Ranga Pillai which can be of great interest to the discerning readers.

Tripunithura, South India

25^th September 2011.

A visit to Rajahmundry and the Godavari basin.

2011-08-31T09:19:00.000-07:00

Chalukya king Rajaraja Narendra (AD 1018-61)

Rajahmundry is a town on the banks of river Godavari. Travelers from South India going to the North may have noticed the railway bridge across Godavari in Andhra Pradesh. The Godavari Rail Bridge is 2.75 kilometers long and is reportedly Asia's second longest road-cum-rail bridge crossing a water body, after Japan's Kansai International Airport Sky Gate. By the way, the Vembanad Rail Bridge in Kerala used only for goods traffic is the longest rail bridge in India.

I visited Rajahmundry in the first week of August as part of my official work and the intervening Sunday was used to get a feel of the place. My visits to areas of interests were made more enjoyable in the company of my colleague from Hyderabad Mr.Dhananjay Ram –who had formerly served as the Managing Director of Andhra Bank Financial Services Ltd and as the Secretary to the Banking Service Recruitment Board- and his vivacious son Vijay, a software Engineer with Oracle.

The Godavari Rail Bridge

Rajahmundry is an ancient city with a history of over a millennium and is a beautiful place to visit. Situated on the banks of the river Godavari, it is a fertile place with much greenery seen around. The river Godavari, originates in the Western Ghats near Nasik in Maharashtra flows eastwards about 1465 km through the Deccan plateau to join the Bay of Bengal through two mouths near the city.

The Chalukya king Rajaraja Narendra is attributed to the founding of Rajamhendravaram around 1022 AD. The Chalukyas ruled parts of southern and central India between 6^th and 12^th centuries and reportedly were a branch of the famous Gurjara- Pratihara Kings of North India. Rajahmundry also is known as a place where the Devadasi system prevailed in which nautch girls dedicated to the Gods performed in temples till the system was finally outlawed in India in 1988.

The doorman at the Hotel

Sir Arthur Thomas Cotton General , RE. KCSI (1803-1899)

Mr.Dhananjaya Ram and his son Vijay at Draksharama temple complex

Dowleswaram Barrage and Sir Arthur Thomas Cotton.

Rajahmundry is famous for the Dowleswaram Barrage built by the fondly remembered General Sir Arthur Thomas Cotton of the Royal Engineers. Only because of the construction of this magnificent structure in 1850, the economy of the place improved by preventing the periodic floods which used to plague these river basins. In turn, agricultural activities flourished and famines which were frequent became quite unknown in the area.

Sir Arthur Thomas Cotton (1803-1899) joined the army at the tender age of 15 as a cadet. In 1821 he was sent to Madras Engineers and had occasion to serve the I Burma war. Besides the anicuts of Godavari and Krishna, Cotton’s contributions extend to many other areas as a Delta Architect. He was knighted in 1861 and later honoured with KCSI in 1877.

The Cotton museum in Rajahmundry is dedicated to him and it displays many records and objects connected with the construction of the barrage that happened 150 years ago when many of the modern facilities including electricity or vehicles were not available to the Engineers.

The steam boiler used by Sir Arthur Cotton c.1840

Bhimeswara temple, Draksharama, near Kakinada

While Mr.Dhananjay Ram wanted to go for the religious rites of Abhisheka, at the temple, I was more interested about its antiquity. The guide, Kashi, arranged by him was a typical south Indian Brahmin, like the Pandas of Benares. He went on reminding me that he did not get a salary from the temple and that his income was only from the generous tips of the visitors and devotees like me. Later, I came to know from Vijay that he already owned a shop selling religious paraphernalia in Hyderabad and was about to open another shop in that city as the business was flourishing.

This famous temple, one of the Pancharama temples in South India is about 30 km from Kakinada and the deity Shiva here is known as Bhimeswara. Legends attribute this to the beginning of Kaliyuga but the Archaeological records say that the temple dates back to the 10^th century and may have been constructed during the reign of Chalukya Bhima 1 of Eastern Chalukya dynasty (892-922 AD). The inscriptions on the stone walls of the temple include those by Velanadu chiefs, Reddy chiefs of Rajahmundry, Kondavidu rulers, Kings and feudatories of Cholas, Chalukyas etc written in Telugu, Sanskrit, and Tamil and these dates back from 10^th to 15^th century.

Many interesting legends are attributed to this temple like the sacrifice of Daksha, destruction of Tripuras, creation of Saptha Godavari and the arrival of Lord Shiva to Draksharama.

Kashi, the guide showing the historical inscriptions on the walls

Lighthouse near Kakinada port

Kakinada beach-Bathers on a hot afternoon-

Small temple modeled after the original Bhimeswara temple, Draksharama inside the complex

Bhimeswara Temple, Samarlakotla.

This temple is one of the Pancharama temples and is in Kakinada rural. Here, the deity Shiva is known as Kumara Bhimeswara. The temple is managed by the archaeological department as it was built by the Chalukyas. Construction of the temple had taken place between 9^th and 10^th centuries like the one at Draksharama.

Boys enjoying the bath in the temple pond

Bhimeswara Temple, Samarlakotla.

The city of Rajahmundry left in me happy memories of a whirlwind trip.

Tripunithura,

Athachamayam day, 2011.

Vignettes from Madurai and around

2011-07-30T19:27:00.000-07:00

Amazing figurine from the Museum complex, Meenakshi temple, Madurai

Chola bronzes at the Museum complex

Inside the Museum complex, Meenakshi temple

Shiva Parvati , Inside temple complex, Madurai

Another statuette

North gate , from the temple complex

Old painting from museum complex

View of Thirumala Naicker's Palace built in 1636 AD designed by an Italian architect

Madurai is famous for hand made cotton Sungudi sarees.

Sunset over Madurai skyline

Roman Catholic, Sacred Heart church at Idaikattur, built in 1888

Stained glass paintings of angels at the church, made in France

Royal Emblem at the entrance to Ramnad Palace , Ramanathapuram

Entrance to Ramnad Palace , Ramanathapuram

Tripunithura,South India
31st July 2011

Great temples of Srirangam and Tanjore

2011-06-30T08:04:00.000-07:00

Matsya Avatar of Vishnu- Dasavatharam Temple, Srirangam-

Official trips often take me to different parts of South India, outside Kerala. If a Sunday falls in between during the visit, I generally look out for places of historical interests.

Last month, I was among the ruins of Hampi, in Karnataka on the Anniversary Day our wedding and after a fortnight when my birthday came, I was at the Salar Jung Museum in Hyderabad. Obviously, these were taken with a pinch of salt by Sindhu, my wife of 28 years.

This time it was my turn to visit various places in Trichy-Tiruchirappalli- and Tanjore –Thanjavur- in Tamil Nadu. While the full fury of the south west monsoon lashed across Kerala, I was in the hotter climate of Tanjore on the summer solstice day of 21^st June when the rays of the sun were perpendicular heralding the summer in the northern hemisphere.

Timeless sculptures of Srirangam

Sri Ranganatha Swamy temple, Srirangam:

Its history dating back to millennia, Srirangam temple is one of the most ancient and great Vaishnava temples of India. Finding a mention in the great Tamil epic, Silappadhikaram, which dates back to 2000 years, this great Vishnu temple is the largest functioning temple complex in the world, spread over 156 acres.

Over centuries, the temple had been patronized by the Pandyas, Cholas, Nayaks, Hoysalas and other royalty. It has also withstood many invasions over centuries.

The mandapa with 1000 pillars and the Dasavatharam temple are some attractions of this large complex where you can get lost if not guided properly. There are 21 gopurams around the complex with 7 concentric walls and over 60 temples of various deities. Some fine examples of ancient architecture could be seen here which shall indeed be an astounding experience.

Legend has it that the Orlov diamond in Kremlin, Moscow was originally one of the eyes of Lord Ranganatha, stolen from the temple around 1750 by a French deserter and smuggled out of the Country. Later, it came to the market in Amsterdam and was bought by Count Grigory Grigorievich Orlov of Russia after whom it came to be known.

Dwarapalaka in front of the great temple, Tanjore
A closer look will show a snake swallowing an elephant under his right foot.

Rajarajeswaram, the Great temple of Tanjore:

Often called the Brihadeeswara Temple, Rajarajeswaram was built by the great emperor Rajaraja Chola I (r. 985-1014) around AD 1010. Presently declared as a UNESCO world heritage site under the Great Living Chola Temples, this temple amazes everyone visiting Tanjore, the ancient city known as the rice bowl of Tamil Nadu.

Though I have been fortunate to visit the Eiffel Tower in Paris and the Great Pyramids off Cairo in the past, I was more awe-stuck on seeing the great temple which is maintained in pristine condition. I was also much delighted to see the old Tamil inscriptions on the granite walls of the temple from which we presently know about the construction and maintenance of the temple and about the offerings to the temple made by the great emperor.

These inscriptions tell us of the great army which protected the temple as also about the people who were entrusted to manage the affairs of the temple. It informs us of several gold vessels and jewellery gifted by the great Chola for use of the temple. We also learn about Krishnan Raman his military commander as also about Esana Sivapandita, the Rajaguru. Many villages were gifted to the temple for its upkeep and the temple had 400 dancing girls as also 50 singers of hymns. 100 musicians played various instruments there and Sanskrit dramas used to be staged. Special arrangements were made for the monthly and annual festivals. The engravings were supervised by a high ranking royal officer. We learn that Adithyan Suryan alias Tennavan muvendavelan, a high ranking royal official was in charge of overall administration of the temple. The chief priest was Bavana Pidaram.

The Brihadeeswara Temple, Tanjore

Designed to represent a cosmic structure, the Mahameru, the temple’s superintending architect (Thacca Karyam) was Kuncharamallan alias Rajaraja Perumthacchan.

One of the two gopuras, a five stage one, in front of the main structure and depicting various forms of Shiva is called Keralantaka Tiruvasal, obviously to commemorate Rajaraja’s victory over the Kerala King Bhaskara Ravi Varman Thiruvadi (AD 962-1019). The defeated Bhaskara Ravi Varma accepted the Chola suzerainty and started paying tributes from his capital at Mahodayapuram.

Keralantaka Tiruvasal

Engravings on the walls , Great Temple, Tanjore.

Churning the milky ocean-Srirangam-

The Darasuram temple

The Darasuram temple is just 3 km from the temple city of Kumbhakonam and is situated in a small sleepy village. The famous Eiravatheswara temple dedicated to Lord Shiva here depicts the finest of Chola art and architecture and is a place anyone remotely interested in our heritage, culture and history must certainly visit. Built by Rajaraja Chola II in the 12^th century, the site is presently a UNESCO World heritage site. The mandapam here is in the form of a huge chariot drawn by horses. Very delicate and detailed artwork on stone could be seen here depicting various facets of daily life of those bygone days.

Here too, many inscriptions could be found. In one inscription it mentions the renovation of the temple by Kulottunga Chola III. Elsewhere, there is mention of an idol being brought to Darasuram after Rajadhiraja I Chola’s defeat of Someshwara I, the Western Chalukya king.

Annapoorneswari, Darasuram

Penance of Parvathi- Darasuram-

Veerabhadra, Darasuram.

Scenes from daily life-Acrobats, Darasuram.

Mandapam, in the form of Chariot, Darasuram

Scenes from daily life-Wrestlers, Darasuram

Famous Rishabha-Kunjara (Ox-Elephant)
See the common head of the animals depicted

Gajasamhara Siva- Siva the slayer of demon elephant-12th century sculpture-
Art Gallery, Tanjore.

Parvathi, Chola bronze of 10th to 11th century, Art Gallery, Tanjore

Scenes from daily life- A lady in labour pain being helped-Darasuram.

The stone carving of Rishabha Kunjara (Ox-Elephant) seen here is an interesting piece of artwork in that the head of these animals is common. From the left, you can see the head of the Oxen facing right whereas the elephant facing left also has the same head, so dexterously carved. Salutations to the unknown artist!

While returning home after my official visits, I decided that my next visits to these amazing destinations are to be exclusively reserved for living in the past and are not to be meddled with mundane chores of daily life and its’ demands on us.

Tripunithura, South India,

30^th June 2011.

Among the ruins of a forgotten empire

2011-05-23T19:05:00.000-07:00

Virupaksha Temple, Hampi, Karnataka

Work takes me to different parts of south India outside Kerala. Last week, I went to Goa, travelled to Hubli and then to Hospet. Then it was to Kurnool via Bellary and to Guntakkal from where a train brings me back to Tripunithura.

Each of these places is different from the other. Summer is quite felt all over but the liveliness of the country is all pervading.

Virupaksha

Inside Virupaksha Temple Complex

One Saturday night I reached Hospet from Hubli. The next day being holiday, I decided to spend the time in Hampi, among the ruins of the forgotten empire, Vijayanagara. Mohan, an employee of our company is a local lad and he was to be my guide. He arranged an auto rickshaw for a day so that we could leisurely move around in this UNESCO world heritage site at Hampi spread over many square kilometers. This village was the site of the last great Hindu empire of Vijayanagara which was fabulously prosperous as described in the writings of travelers of the 14th to 16th centuries.

Arab traveler Abdul Razaak (1442), Portuguese travelers Domingo Paes (1522), Fernao Nuniz (1535) and Italian traveler Nicolò Conti (1420) all have left glorious accounts of the rich princes and of the prosperity of this amazing kingdom. In the market places of Vijayanagara, it has been chronicled, precious metals and stones used to be traded with the casualness of other cheap merchandise reflecting the prosperity of this great empire. Founded in 1336, the empire reached its zenith during the reign of Krishnadevaraya (r.1509-29 who won many battles and extended the empire considerably. Its tragic end came in 1565 in the battle of Talikotta in which the combined armies of the Deccan sultans defeated and killed King Ramaraya. The city was plundered for six months and left abandoned bringing down the curtains on one of the most prosperous kingdoms the world had seen.

One of the Harems

Musician on a pillar

Describing one of the battle victories of Krishnadevaraya, the Spanish writer, Faria y Souza writes, thus:

"While the governor was in the Red Sea, the King Crisnao Rao of Bisnaga covered the plains and hills and stopped the flow of the river with an army of thirty-five thousand horse, seven hundred and thirty-three thousand foot, and five hundred and eighty-six elephants carrying castles with four men in each, and twelve thousand watermen ... and baggage in such quantities that the courtesans alone numbered more than twenty thousand.”

What great army he might have had, I wonder!

I recommend the book, "A forgotten empire: Vijayanagar; a contribution to the history of India" (Includes a translation of "Chronica dos reis de Bisnaga," from Domingos Paes and Fernao Nuniz from 1520 and 1535 respectively) by Robert Sewell to anyone wanting to read the stunning rise and fall of Vijayanagara. It can be freely downloaded from the web.

While walking among the ruins of the great city, I told Mohan that I was not actually seeing the excavated sites. My mind had taken a trip in a time machine which took me back by 500 years. I was seeing Krishnadevaraya with his consort on a fine evening coming in royal procession to the Virupaksha temple premises. Caparisoned elephants, horses, chariots and the infantry were in the places allocated. The beautiful citizens of Vijayanagara in festive moods were walking around the market place appreciating the beauty of various merchandise displayed for sale. The musicians, dancers, courtesans and other artists were aplenty. Scholars, ambassadors from other countries and governors of provinces and other vassals were arriving in great numbers. The whole city smelled of silk, sandalwood and other perfumes......

Ornate pillars of Vittala temple

Lotus Mahal

River Tungabhadra behind Virupaksha Temple

Ugra Narasimha hewn out of a single boulder of granite 1528

Magnificient stone chariot in the Vittala temple complex

The elephant stable

The king's balance

As the shadows grew longer, I returned to the cool premises of the hotel room with my mind wandering around the events of an era gone by.

Unfortunately, Sindhu my wife was not there with me to see all these in spite of the day being the 28th anniversary of our wedding.

Tripunithura, South India.
24th May 2011

An IPO, IPL and distant Malawi

2011-05-01T08:39:00.000-07:00

At Le Meredien Kochi , 29th April 2011

I have been to the famous cricket grounds of Firoz Shah Kotla in Delhi, The Wanderers in Johannesburg and the lesser known Chandrasekharan Nair stadium in Trivandrum to watch Test matches during different times of my life. However, an occasion to see some of the great players in close quarters came rather recently; to be precise yesterday.

The company, for which I work now, came out with its IPO during this month which met with stupendous success getting subscribed 25 times! We also happen to be the principal sponsors for the “Delhi Dare Devils “, one of the teams of the Indian Premier League which has popularized cricket among people across the country while making itself a big money spinner. So it was an occasion for the company to invite members of the senior management with their spouses to a dinner in honour of the Delhi team at the Le Meridien Kochi on 29th April 2011. The following day, the Delhi Dare Devils were to meet Kerala Tuskers, Kochi at the JN Stadium, Kochi.

Virender Sehwag signing on the cricket ball for Unni

A fine cultural entertainment was hosted to welcome the team led by the inimitable Virender Sehwag, the captain of the team. Sharing his views about Kerala, as observed during his shooting days in Alleppey for some commercials, he said it is indeed a beautiful country, but, the water - he probably meant the backwaters of Alleppey - was dirty. He said,” Paani bahuut gandaa hai!”

Mithun Varma (Unni) by Lake Malawi, 2005

You could not have agreed with him more. Years back, far away in the Southern African state of Malawi, one of the poorest countries in the world with one of the best climates on this planet, I have seen Lake Malawi with pristine surroundings and pure water. We claim ourselves to be very literate and being aware about the environment. Sadly, the visitors judge us differently.

Scene from the cultural event

A sumptuous dinner followed. Everyone wished a great game to the Dare Devils and it probably worked. The next day, Sehwag made a captain’s knock of 80 runs in 47 balls to lead his team to victory!

Scenes from the cultural events hosted

The team members arrive at the venue

The team on stage

James Hopes autographing for Unni

Irfan Pathan of Delhi Dare Devils at the Dinner

I got a couple of cricket balls, autographed by Sehwag and James Hopes, his Australian teammate to be gifted to Mithun (Unni) my son. He would have preferred an autograph from Jack Kallis, though.

Tripunithura, South India
30th April 2011.

The Maharajah of Cochin and the Rawalji of Badrinath

2011-02-07T07:17:00.000-08:00

Maharajah Rama Varma of Cochin (r.1932-41)

Maharaja Rama Varma of Cochin - Chowarayil Theepetta Thampuran – was popularly known as Dharmika Chakravarthy and ruled the state from 1932 to1941. Cochin made great progress under this Maharajah who was known for his extreme simplicity and lofty commitment to the country. Sir. R.K.Shanmugham Chetty, the first Finance minister of independent India, was the Diwan- Prime minister- of Cochin during the period from 1931 to 1945, thus serving most of his tenure under this Maharajah.

Sir. Shanmugham Chetty, Diwan of Cochin (1931-45)

Much of the developments of present day Cochin were triggered during the reign of Dharmika Chakravarthy under the able initiatives of Sir. Shanmugham Chetty. The Cochin secretariat- the civil station- was established on modern administrative lines, and the high court was opened in 1938. The development of the Cochin harbour was also completed during this time. The Shanmugham road, of present day Cochin, is named after this illustrious administrator, who coined the phrase “Queen of the Arabian Sea” way back in 1931.

The innocence and simplicity of this Maharajah has found favour with many writers. VKN, the popular Malayalam humorist and Puthezhathu Raman Menon, former High Court judge, writer and Sarvadhikaryakkar (Chief Secretary) to the Maharajah have eloquently described many instances from the life of this Maharajah. I don’t want to dwell into any of these because those are outside the purview of the present note. I quote just one instance to reflect on this. The details are from the wonderfully interesting book, “Rajavamsam-Tripunithura Smaranakal” (The Dynasty- Memories of Tripunithura-) by R.T.Ravi Varma.

The maharajah used to mingle with every class of people with equanimity. He was very passionate about elephants and drums (Chenda). He was also personally familiar with all the mahouts and the owners of the elephants. Once, on a visit to the Central jail at Trichur, he recognized one of the mahouts among the convicts. “Why are you here, Rama?”, “Where is your elephant?” , he asked. Astonished at the enquiries of the Maharajah, the authorities tried to explain about the crime committed by the mahout. Discarding all their arguments, he commanded,”Either the elephant should be brought here or Raman should be set free and be sent back to the elephant.””How can a mahout live without the elephant?” Stunned at the argument, the authorities had to set free the mahout.

I attach a letter dated 10th October 1939 written to the Rawalji of Badrinath on behalf of this Maharajah by his personal secretary. Incidentally, Elamana Madhava Menon, the young personal secretary was the grandson of the Maharajah. This letter also reflects on the personality of the Maharajah in a certain way.

Letter dated 10th October 1939 from the Maharajah's PS to the Rawalji of Badrinath

This letter is addressed to P.Vasudevan Nampoothiri who was then the Rawalji of Badrinath. He hailed from Perumpalliyazhatu mana at Vaikom. This mana was a fine example of traditional Kerala architecture and the present owners had gifted this to Abhaya, a non-profit organization run by the illustrious poet and philanthropist Prof. Sugatha Kumari. They have since translocated this mana to Abhayagramam in Trivandrum retaining the original structure. (This letter reached me through my brother Vijay Varma who found it in the attic of the mana. My brother is connected to Krishnan Nambiathiri- owner of the mana- through matrimonial links in the family.)

Traditionally, the high priests of Badrinath temple are Namboothiris from Kerala. It is believed that Adi Sankaracharya had ordained this. The priest is called Rawal (Rawalji) and is periodically selected from the members belonging to a group of Brahmin families brought to Kerala from Gokarnam by the Kolathiri Rajahs. The Rawalji is to be a celibate bachelor as per tradition and he is held in very high esteem by the Hindu devotees and the Government of Uttarkhand. During the days of the British Raj too, special privileges were extended to the His Holiness the Rawalji of Badrinath by the Government of United Provinces and the royals from the princely states used to pay special obeisance to Him.

Translation of the letter in Malayalam to English

Emblem of the Government of Cochin

Hill Palace, Tripunithura,
10th October 1939

Sree

I have been ordered to convey you that the prasad, shawl etc sent from there are happily acknowledged by His Highness and that it shall further be pleasing if some musk also could be sent when available.

His Highness hopes that the telegram sent to you, asking for remitting the value of the waist-chain in gold, got done here and sent to you, is since received.

Here, His Highness and those with him are doing well. There is no further news. His Highness hopes that all of you over there are also keeping well. His Highness has further commanded for a reply in due course about all news from there.

Signed

Elamana Madathil Madhava Menon
Private Secretary to His Highness the Maharajah

To
Brahmasri. P.Vasudevan Nampoothiri Esquire,
Rawal,
Badrinath.

Temple of Badrinath

This letter is quite amusing in that the Maharajah asks the Rawalji to pay for the price of the golden waist-chain (Ponnaranjnaan). Normally, the Maharajahs used to gift away such items to eminent persons who distinguish themselves in various fields. Also, the Maharajah does not seem to have any hesitation in asking the Rawalji to send some musk (perfume obtained from the musk-deers of the Himalayas) from there when available.

These types of demi-official and personal letters throw much light into the personal preferences, likes and dislikes of the people involved and could be very interesting to read.

Fort, Tripunithura,
7th February 2011.

A Gallant Knight in the New Year

2011-01-04T06:34:00.000-08:00

The New Year was celebrated by us in a small family gathering with few relatives. Apparently everyone wanted to bid farewell to a year which was not too pleasant in many ways. The world at large was still under the tentacles of recession. In India we were witnessing some of the most blatant instances of corruption in public life. Inside Kerala the paradoxes were on the rise with the highly literate state getting ashamed over police excesses, systematic destruction of administration and rising prices. To top it all, the housewives were seriously concerned over the unheard price rise of onions.

Raj, younger son of legendary musician LPR Varma was on a vacation from the Middle East and his house by the side of Tripunithura backwaters was the venue for our get-together. A perennial entertainer that he is, he along with his gracious wife Thulsi took the initiative. His sister Beena, brother Prem with his family, turned up along with Jamuna Varma their aunt-Cheriyamma-with whom my wife Sindhu shares the same relationship. Raj’s niece Priya with husband Sivan –a builder of good standing-who belongs to the Cochin Royal family too was there.

The New Year Eve

I met Laksman Varma there after 30 years. He is a nephew of the late G.RavindraVarma, former Union Minister of Labour and a Gandhian who was a personal confidante of Morarji Desai. In the late seventies when I was a probationer with a bank in Delhi, he used to be staying in the minister’s bungalow and we used to meet very frequently. He then went abroad for a career and is presently in Kochi running his advertisement firm.

All eyes and ears on Jeetu (L to R : Jeetu,Prem, Lakshman, Sivan and Murali)

Laksman told us that Jeetu –Prajit Varma- who is his nephew and who is a Major in the army with the elite special group of the Para regiment and stationed in Himachal Pradesh was on a short vacation and he soon joined us. The lad, who is the son of late Pratapa Varma of Kilimanoor Palace- one of the most jovial and gentle personalities I have had occasion to befriend-and Lakshmi Varma of Mavelikkara Palace is the recipient of the coveted Sena Medal (Gallantry) of the Indian Army awarded during the Republic Day of 2006.An alumni of the Sainik School, Kazhakkoottam and the National Defence Academy, he was commissioned to the 1st Para of the Indian Army. Prajith and his father in law, Dr.Raja Raja Varma, eminent paediatric surgeon and Professor – whom we call Kunjunniyannan- who was in town paid us a visit on the New Year day. We have been closely known since my posting in Trivandrum 25 years back.

The Sena Medal

The Sena Medal (SM) is awarded to all members of the Indian Army, for such individual acts of exceptional devotion to duty or courage as have special significance for the Army. Awards may be made posthumously and these are awarded both for distinguished service and for gallantry. Obviously, these gallantry medals are awarded for exceptionally courageous action in the face of the enemy. The Sena Medal is preceded by the Vir Chakras and in turn it precedes the Vishisht Seva Medal. . The Sena Medal of the Indian Army is the equivalent of the US Bronze Star and carries a monthly allowance of Rs 500. Normally, the Sena Medal carries a citation mentioning the specific heroic act of the recipient for which the medal is awarded.

Prajith told us that his action was against Pakistani infiltrators in J&K in the year 2005 when he as a Captain commanded his company in facing and driving out five armed militants who had taken shelter in civilian houses. The combing operations in the houses were dangerous, painstaking, emotional and warranting much discipline in the face of extreme risk to one’s life. On questions from Raj and others if he was driven by fierce patriotism, Jeetu in all humility said that he simply felt of doing the assigned duty. I was frankly amazed at the ease with which the young and brave soldier approaches the tasks.

Field Marshal Hugh Gough 1st Viscount Gough(1779-1869)

Mithun, my son and a teenager in his class XI, seemed quite impressed by Jeetu, his physique and his career and the élan with which he carried himself. Later he confessed to me that probably he may have to rethink about his career plans. After all, the life of a commando seems exciting enough! I have often been pulling the legs of the 16 year old boy, by telling him the inspirational story of Field Marshal Sir Hugh Gough who was commissioned into the army of the East India Company at the tender age of 14. This gallant and much loved Irish campaigner who always led from the front was the commander in chief of British forces in India and commanded in more general actions than any other British officer of the 19th century except the Duke of Wellington. Lord Gough defeated the Sikhs in the battle of Gujarat in 1849 thus annexing the Sikh empire of Ranjeet Singh paving way for the complete occupation of the Indian subcontinent. Lord Gough never lost a single battle and won four colonial wars. He died, at the age of 90, a field marshal and a viscount.

Despite many dark clouds in the national horizon, we certainly have many silver linings too. India’s greatest asset seem to be that of well intentioned youngsters like Sandeep Unnikrishnan, Prajith and hundreds of scores like them who inspire the young generations to emulate them and take this country well into the 21st century with every Indian holding his head high with pride, happiness and fulfilment.

Fort, Tripunithura
2nd January 2011

Evolution of the Soda Bottle

2010-12-30T03:11:00.000-08:00

Webbs Double Soda Waters, London c. 1830 (Murali's Collections)

As the New Year eve approaches, corks are popped up all over. Kerala is a state in which the hard liquor is sold like an essential food item and has more consumers than for the traditional hot cakes of Xmas and New Year. Soda water is an essential ingredient for hot drinks for many.

Though soda water in pet bottles is popular and readily available, many people use the soda makers at home for making their drinks. I too had once bought the Butlers soda maker, a brand quite popular here.

Talking about soda bottles, it is very interesting to trace the evolution of these in India. Though the concept drinking soda water was introduced by the English, the elite Indians soon developed a taste for it and buying soda water became quite fashionable in the nineteenth century.

The earlier soda bottles date back to 1778. Probably, these bottles were introduced in India only during the middle of the 19th century. These egg shaped bottles had a pointed base and could be placed only on its side. This was to keep the cork moist and thus tight-fitting and to prevent the gas from escaping.

The Hutchinson's Device c 1920-Murali's Collections -

The lightening stopper was used from 1880 to 1920. These bottles worked on a wire-clip principle. These bottles were also called Hutchinson’s bottles because Charles G. Hutchinson of Chicago invented this bottle-closure and called it the "Hutchinson Stopper".

The cod bottle c 1960 -Murali's Collections-

Later, the "cod bottles" came into use around 1930s. These bottles with aerated water had a marble inside the bottle's neck that created a seal when the bottle was turned upside down. The marble then pressed against a rubber ring. During my boyhood days, these soda bottles were the standard everywhere. Interestingly, many soda makers in Kerala villages still use these bottles. A curious westerner will certainly find this amusing.

Crown cork bottle seal c 1970s

In the late nineteenth century, William Painter introduced the crown-cork bottle seal, which quickly became a standard and replaced other types of bottle sealing devices. These were introduced to Indian markets only decades later.

Soda bottle for the household soda maker c 1990

The pet bottles came into market during the early 21st century by which time the glass bottles were taking a retreat. Aluminium cans for soda waters also are popular and the little old glass bottles are now of interest to only good old collectors like me.

Hearty Cheers for a happy 2011!

Fort In, Tripunithura, South India

30th December 2010.

Nostalgic memories

2010-12-19T04:32:00.000-08:00

Statue of the Maharajah

Anyone born in Kerala and who has gone away from its shores for employment and a living has many lingering memories of the land in his mind. Of these, the memories connected with the ancestral family, the village, the childhood, the harvest festivals and the worshipping places are most rooted. Probably, this is because these institutions or symbols have considerably shaped ones personality and thoughts during one’s formative years.

Temple festivals of yore were occasions when village children in particular enjoyed themselves wholeheartedly. The hawkers with wares unseen, vendors of exotic sweets, performers of magic tricks, performances like Ottan thullal, Chenda melam with its mystic and captivating tones and the caparisoned elephants provided enough thrill and excitements to the young minds. Money was hard to come by, but the enthusiasm was never diminished. Snacks from the make-shift stalls tasted heavenly.

As one grew up, the colours of many memories faded. Still, the Kathakali performances seen with sleep-filled eyes and the sight of the procession of family members back to home in the wee hours of the morning are images strongly left in the mind.

Ezhunnellippu, the divine procession

The temple festival at the Poornathrayeesa temple during the first week of December brought back many memories of my childhood. We stay in the Fort area adjacent to the temple. I have grown to be less religious. I am now more interested in spirituality and philosophy which cross the boundaries of every known dimension invented by man. However, I respect tradition and love all the art forms which were greatly encouraged by our forefathers. So, an occasional trip to the temple precincts with cameras was always memorable. My SLR camera with lenses had been gifted to Lavanya, my daughter who has since proceeded to the Nottingham University and I am left with only digital compact cameras and the Digicam. She does a very good job with the camera and I have no regrets. The thrill of still photography comes only with a SLR camera, I feel.

Thayampaka, the orchestra.

Majesty, the caparisoned elephant
Pancharimelam, the orchestra

Seeveli procession

There were about 16 elephants brought to the confines of the temple compound. The caparisoned elephants provided a beautiful sight indeed. But I wonder if we need to continue with the tradition of bringing elephants for the festivals. These mammoth animals are not intended for such occasions. They are best left in the jungles or game parks so that generations to follow will praise our compassion and understanding to these gentle animals of unique proportions.

As always, the ending of every festival brings in a gloom. But soon, at another place, another festival begins. The performers move to their next destination with all their paraphernalia along with the bundles of their Karma!

Now, comes X’mas! A very merry Christmas and a very happy new year to all!

Fort, Tripunithura,
South India.
19th December 2010

Departure of a noble soul

2010-11-24T08:21:00.000-08:00

Mrs. Subbalakshmi Karyakkar (1925-2010)

Mrs. Subbalakshmi Karyakkar of Chathapuram Gramam in Palakkad died on the 17th of November 2010 at the ripe old age of 85. A widow, she left behind her two elderly daughters, Rajam and Rukmini. A simple old Brahmin lady, she was not of much consequence to the present day society of Palakkad which is fighting hard to catch up with the rest of this consumer state for the fast moving life that we witness all around. Who was this venerable lady –who we fondly used to call Mami -to me? To put it straight, I must say that she was more like a mother to me, though we were not blood- related.

Sixteen years back, when I made a career change and when I and Sindhu were expecting our second child, we were at Palakkad enjoying the good winter weather and the delicious foods the place was famous for.

As it happened with me, my spare time often used to be spent on visiting some of the local traders who dealt in antiques. Most of them were raw dealers who were neither well read nor knowledgeable about the items they handled. However they were nevertheless shrewd businessmen who knew how to extract the best price from a yearning collector. One of them whom I know for the last 25 years and who had humble beginnings, is presently a very rich man who supplies old and remodeled furniture to the makers of Mollywood movies for its set

One such trader, a friend, the old and simple Kunhippakkutty Sahib of Melamuri told me that I may meet the Karyakkar family at Chathapuram that used to do some family business in old and antique goods from their home. This led me to the house of Mami and the first meeting with her and her two daughters was the beginning of a lasting association of mutual respect, affection and un-adulterated sentiments which has been continuing ever since.

Chathapuram Gramam, Old Kalpathy, Palakkad

Mami personified grace, charm, warmth and hospitality for which her generation was famous for. She was particularly graceful and always reminded me of the inimitable M.S.Subbalakshmi whose name she too shared. Mami had resplendent and big nose- rings set with the finest of old diamonds. She was an expert in judging the precious stones. Mr.C.S.Raja Karyakkar, her husband belonging to the renowned Karyakkar family of old Kalpathy was a fine scholar in Sanskrit and Indian Philosophy. The Karyakkar family was originally from Kozhikode where they were the officials of the Zamorin. Some unpleasantness in the relationship caused the family to move to Palakkad more than two centuries back and they were welcomed by the then ruling family of Palakkad with all respect. Raja Karyakkar was also a dealer in diamonds and knew the subject of gemology like the palm of his hand. He also traded in elephants and was an expert in the subjects like Hasthiayurveda-Ayurveda of Elephants- and was adept in books like Mathangaleela. One of my regrets in life-I have quite a few- is that I could not meet and acquaint with the family when he was alive. Mami used to tell me that I am like a son to her and that her husband would have been immensely pleased to meet this humble chronicler during his life time.

Chathapuram Vinayaka Temple

Mami was born in Kizhakke Madhom in North Parur in the erstwhile Cochin State as the daughter of Mr.S.Devaraja Iyer and Mrs. Nagalakshmi, who had 6 sons and 6 daughters. Theirs was a rich and influential family and Mami inherited all the great qualities of her roots. She was always cheerful, gracious and was like goddess Annapurneswari. Lots of people visited her house and always had the most delicious foods served. All the hardships in her life could not take away the smile on her face with which she made her abode a most cozy one. She lost her husband early in life and had to see the death of her son- in –law, Mani Swami, another jewel of a person whom I had the privilege to meet. Of her two daughters, Rukmini, the younger one who earned a degree chose to remain a bachelor and despite offers of employments wanted to be with her devoted mother. Rajam, the eldest daughter whose husband died and whose daughter Radha had to wriggle out of wedlock, was also staying with the mother and Mami certainly was very fortunate to get the caring and loving treatments from her devoted daughters during her old age.

Mami was a great devotee of Lord Vinayaka, the presiding deity of the ancient Chathapuram temple. She earnestly believed that the “Remover of obstacles-Lord Vighneswara- is always there as an all-encompassing presence to protect all of us. As high priests to the temple, the Karyakkar family had special privileges. On many occasions, Mami and her daughters had arranged special pujas for us at the temple and the offerings included the tastiest of succulent modakas- Modaka is small and steamed rice ball filled with a fine mixture of grated coconuts and melted jaggery-

Mami’s house was a Kalavara-store house of food articles-of sumptuous snacks and varieties of south Indian vegetarian delicacies for which the Keralite Tamil Brahmins were always famous. T.N.Seshan, former CEC of India had famously remarked that the Keralite Tamil Brahmin excelled in three Cs; Civil Servants, Cooks and Crooks. Mami was not a civil servant and she was anything but a crook. But she was indeed a great Cook. How many times have we relished the murukkus, pakkavadas, laddus, ada dosais and the freshly brewed filter coffee Mami used to make with the greatest of care and the fullest of warmth with dashes of innocent smiles thrown in?

She got a golden ring done for me with three small and exquisite diamonds from her possession. She had sat through with the goldsmith to personally oversee the work.

Mami left for her last journey rather peacefully on the auspicious Ekadasi day of Lord Guruvayoorappan. It was also the day when the famous Ratham festival of Kalpathy concluded. Devotees believe that those who die on this auspicious day join the lotus feet of the Lord. I am sure; Mami’s noble soul rests in peace with the Almighty.

Every trip of ours to Palakkad always included a visit to Chathapuram and Mami’s house. The visits will continue but we shall surely miss the warmth and the maternal love we were always privileged to earn.

Fort, Tripunithura, South India,
23rd November 2010.

Defending our Honour

2010-11-04T20:33:00.001-07:00

Dying with honour- Seppuku-

One of the most shameful incidents of corruption in public life in post independent India has come out with the exposition of the Adarsh society scam from Mumbai.

Whatever may be said and justified by the VVIPs involved –which includes Chief Ministers, Cabinet ministers, Service Chiefs, Chief Secretary/Secretaries, politicians etc etc- , it is clear as crystal that all of them were aware of the gravity of the outrage they were committing. If someone claimed that he was ignorant of the facts surrounding the housing project, we can safely presume that he was not fit to be in the exalted pedestal where we had placed him.

Here you see greedy, powerful and rich people manipulating every rule and grabbing the land which belonged to the Indian Army. This was the force which was expected to protect 1.1 billion people of this country from enemies. The army in its wisdom and good intention had proposed to build a small housing complex in the prime area of Mumbai adjacent to the Defence offices mainly for the widows and families of the Kargil war veterans. The project was scuttled and the day-light robbery was committed with scant respect for the rule of the law.

Operation Vijay medal awarded to soldiers of Kargil war

Amitabh Naik, my esteemed friend and the son of a most illustrious father who belonged to the last batch of ICS of pre independent India, recently wrote to me about the value the Samurais- the warriors of medieval Japan- attached to their personal honour. Suicide by Seppuku (stomach-cutting) was invariably carried out by the Samurais to die with honour if they had committed any act of shame. Alas! Our leaders are blissfully ignorant of history. May be these ravenous animals do not understand the meaning of honour. Otherwise, how could a General/Admiral forget the tears of the widows of the soldiers he commanded who laid down their lives with honour for the country?

None of those involved shall go for Sepukku because he has to lose much and he does not really care for the country or its people.

The least we expect from the government is a speedy investigation to bring out the culprits and to punish them severely by impounding their ill-gotten assets so that it should act as a deterrent to the other wily animals around who may have nasty intentions.

Let us bow our heads in shame before the real heroes and their families of the Kargil war!

Tripunithura, South India
Diwali, 2010.

A passionate soccer enthusiast

2010-11-04T06:40:00.000-07:00

Sudhakara Varma and Radhika Varma

Last week, we were invited to the Shashtyabdapoorthi-6oth birthday- of Sudhakara Varma, a relative and I was suddenly made more aware of my own generation which has just entered the wrong side of fifties. He hails from Kilimanoor Palace and is a great grand nephew of the illustrious painter Raja Ravi Varma. He is also the brother of my brother-in-law (my sister’s husband) and is the brother-in-law of my elder brother. To avoid confusions, I must add that his brother and sister married my sister and brother respectively.

He stays at Kamalalayam Palace at Tripunithura, just opposite to the house where I stay now. His devoted wife Radhika Varma is the grand niece of Col. Goda Varma Raja (brother-in-law of Maharaja Chithira Thirunal of Travancore) and is the daughter of Captain Kerala Varma who had served during the II WW and who was the first to be commissioned to the British India Army from the royal household of Cochin. He was also one to be stripped of his commission for the alleged connection with the communists during the pre-independence days. He also served as ADC to Maharaja Kerala Varma (r.1946-48) popularly known as Aikya-keralam Thampuran.

Maharaja Kerala Varma of Cochin - Aiykya Keralam Thampuran - r.1946-48)

Maharaja Kerala Varma of Cochin - Midukkan Thampuran - (r.1941-43)

We went to his house for the birthday lunch which was quite a modest affair with only the immediate family in attendance. Sri. Rama Varma Raja, the Valiya Raja of Poonjar Palace and the youngest brother of Col. G.V.Raja, was there in all simplicity. He was quite shy when I asked for his confirmation of the title. I also met Kunjappan Chettan, a grand nephew of Maharaja Kerala Varma Midukkan Thampuran of Cochin (r.1941-43) who shared many stories about this unusual Maharaja.

Sri.Rama Varma Raja, Valiya raja of Poonjar Palace

Sudhakara Varma is one of the most unassuming, kind, affectionate and large- hearted personalities, I have ever met. Professionally, he is a foot ball coach and rides on his bicycle to the ground. His life is dedicated to Football and he runs a football academy at Tripunithura named Top Notch Football Academy. He is the chief coach and mentor to the academy. Rain or shine, he is seen cycling to the ground early in the morning to train the youngsters. During the recently concluded WC Football matches, I used to hear his incisive analysis of the games. A great admirer of Diego Maradona, Sudhakara Varma surprisingly shares the same birth day of the legend, though separated by a decade.

I was quite amused to hear his stories about the difficulties being faced to make the youngsters reach the ground early in the morning. Present day youngsters who love their sleep are hesitant to wake up early and Sudhakara Varma often had to use the persuasive skills of a fellow enthusiast- a police officer- to make the young footballers awake and make them run to the ground for training.

Passion for the game alone has shaped this unique coach. He imports journals and training manuals and follows the international games closely to develop his own strategies for moulding young Lionel Messis, Wayne Rooneys or Zinadine Zidanes of the future. No wonder, in five years of the formation of the academy, Top Notch Football team has won the championship in the Ernakulum District league during this year. A promising student of the game from the academy recently left to the UK to play in the local clubs there.

The coach in the field

Rarely do we find such fine individuals with all simplicity and with such passion for a cause. Money has never been a motivation for such individuals and in their personal lives ignominy is accepted with as much dispassion as recognition. The driving force for them is always the love for the cause and the satisfaction they derive on seeing the seeds they sowed sprout with promises.

I left the place reciting in my mind the Rig-Vedic verse starting with; “Jeevema Sarada Satham”- Let you live a hundred autumns----

Tripunithura, South India
3rd November 2010

Monsoons in Kerala

2010-06-30T05:17:00.000-07:00

Accounts are settled after transporting an elephant

This year, the South West Monsoons in Kerala in June appeared quite active. The whole country is drenched in water and I was frequently shuttling between Palakkad and Cherthala during the month. Of late my Dad had not been enjoying good health and I needed to shift base to Kochi/Tripunithura as my son had joined a school there for his 11th.
I opted out of a banking assignment in Kabul because of the obvious risks and for the time being decided to be at Tripunithura relaxing a bit with my personal interests. Transporting personal effects in Kerala through a heavy motor vehicle is not at all a pleasant experience. Besides, the settling down at a new place has its own inconveniences and delays. I am yet to get my net connections.
It should take a couple of weeks more for the dust to settle inside the house. Outside, thanks to the rains, there is no dust but many a messy water pool.
During the rains, while traveling, you are likely to find many objects and situations good for photographs. Only problem is that when you are tensed, the mood to access the camera is lost.
Still, let me add a few snaps.

Photo courtesies : Lavanya Varma

Beach at Thiruvizha-Cherthala-

Mountain ranges of Palakkad Pass

Transpoting an elephant by a Lorry

Tripunithura, South India

30th June 2010

Princely Coorg and Chikka Veera Rajendra, it’s last Rajah

2010-05-31T05:57:00.000-07:00

Scenic beauty of Coorg 1990

Often I have felt that we Indians in general and Keralites in particular know little, literally and figuratively, about our own neighbours.

Coorg, Kodagu (or Kodaimala nadu) often referred to as the Scotland of India was one of our neighbouring independent princely states during the British Raj. Madikeri is the capital of the present day district of Coorg in Karnataka.

The history of the Coorg Rajahs is delineated in the Rajendraname, a work compiled by order of Dodda Vira Rajendra Wodeyar, the hero of Coorg history, and the Coorg beau ideal of a warrior king. It comprises a period of 175 years, from 1633 to 1807.

The life and times of Chikka Veerarajendra, the last Raja of Coorg makes very interesting reading and many of the incidences could beat the hell out of the stories of some Hollywood thrillers. I recall my visit to Madikeri twenty years back when I and my wife stayed there for a week for rest and recuperation enjoying the climate, the food and watching the daily life of the beautiful people of Coorg.

Atop the tomb of Dodda Vira Raja and his Queen 1990

At home, I was browsing some books from my collections which I had not read over the years and found the book Chikka Veera Rajendra written originally in Kannada by Masti Venkatesha Iyengar, the Jnanapith winner. It is a brilliant literary work, a historical novel, depicting the people and incidences of an important period of South Indian history and in particular the times of Chikka Veera Rajendra, the last ruler of Coorg. Masti Venkatesha Iyengar has brought many historical personalities live to the novel and has displayed a rare brilliance in the analysis of human behaviour and character. He also sticks on to historical facts while taking the liberties of an author to make the literary work eminently enjoyable. The book made me read some other books on the last raja of Coorg and about the fascinating story of the Haleri dynasty-Lingayats- which ruled Coorg from AD 1580 till 1834.

Dodda Veera Rajendra (r.1780 - 1809)

Tippu Sultan defeated Coorg in 1784 and took the ruling family as prisoners. Vira Raja or Vira Rajendra Wodeyar, accompanied by his wife and his two brothers Linga Raja and Appaji, the principal survivors of the Coorg Family effected his escape from Periyapatna after a confinement of six years. He assumed the leadership of Coorg and kept the forces of Tippu engaged over the years.

Sir Robert Abercromby, then Governor of Bombay, met Vira Raja at Cannanore in March 1793, when proceeding from Bombay to Calcutta to take up his appointment as Commander-in-Chief of Bengal. Sir Robert honoured the Raja by drawing up a new agreement, to satisfy this gallant ally and to bind him still closer to the interests of the Company. From this time to the end of his life, Vira Raja remained the trusty friend of the Company, and his affairs prospered. On the place where he had first met with General Abercromby on his march to Seringapatam in 1791, the Raja had founded the town of Virarajendrapet in 1792. In April 1795 he took up his residence in the new palace built at Nalknad.

Dodda Veera Rajendra was a most remarkable ruler. But the death of his Rani Mahadevamma in May 1807 threw his mind out of gear and he began to show signs of insecurity and insanity. In fits of rage, he ordered assassinations of his own officers and relatives. Once a palace coup was spoiled and he personally killed over 25 people and hundreds were executed by his African bodyguards. He also arranged the assassination of his two brothers in a rage thinking that the eldest daughter then could ascend the throne with ease. After sending the executioners, he had changed the mind on prevalence of good sense. In the meantime, the executioners had beheaded Appanna, one of the brothers. Linga Raja, the second brother escaped the axe. He wanted Devammaji, the eldest of four daughters from the Rani to succeed him and sought the help of the Governor General to accede to his requests of succession to Devammaji and the protection of his daughters. He also invested over 180000 gold pagodas with the Company and over 3 lakhs of rupees in the name of Devammaji. The gallant Raja, who had fought the onslaught of the Sultans, died a miserable man in fits of madness in 1809.

Epilogue: Devammaji his idolized daughter was married and had four children, two sons and two daughters. She was deprived of the throne and of her father's legacy, and lived in obscurity. Before the end of 1833 her husband was murdered in the palace, she herself carried a prisoner to Mercara, her property seized by her cousin Chikka Vira Raja (a lakh of pagodas at one sweep), and shortly after she herself was murdered at Mercara, and her three surviving children (one boy appears to have died a natural death), massacred at Nalknad, by orders of her relative, and their corpses thrown into pits.

Lingaraja II (1811 - 1820) was the brother of Dodda Veera Rajendra and had been living in his farms away from his brother during his reign. . Lingaraja, a tyrant, barely 34, had usurped the throne with the help of Appanna a capable and sincere Dewan by overthrowing Devammaji who had been initially appointed the Rani by the Chiefs of Coorg.

Vira Rajendra was impelled to deeds of blood by a naturally savage temperament, hardened by habits of internecine warfare in which he was engaged almost throughout life, and inflamed towards the end of his career by paroxysms of the darkest suspicions, and a melancholy ever hovering on the brink of insanity. His brother, Linga Raja, had none of his redeeming qualities. His cruelty was without excuse. He had some ambition to shine as a poet. Some of his pieces, addressed to one of his wives, are still preserved. They have no merit, and were perhaps made for him. However, he may have been a Nero in a small way. Cruelty seems to have been his sport. He liked to kill his victims with his own hand, with gun, bow or knife. For small offences people had their ears cropped, their noses cut, or their tongues clipped. For an impertinent answer men or women had their mouths rinsed, that was the phrase, i. e. their lips were cut off all round their mouths, and they were left to perish without food or drink. Others were thrown down a precipice on the hill side, near the Raja's Seat in Mercara. Many seem to have been destroyed merely for the purpose of confiscating their property, for Linga Raja had as great a passion for gold as for blood.

During the first years of his reign he was restrained from giving full vent to his atrocious propensities by the influence of his Devan, Kshauryakere Appanna, who seems to have been a man of character and independence, bold enough to lecture the tyrant whom he had placed on the throne in preference to the rule of a stranger, the Raja of Sode. But by degrees Linga Raja became impatient of the control of a subject. Appanna, relying on the Raja's gratitude, continued to exhort, to warn and at times "to resist his master. He had mistaken his man. One day the Devan was seized and carried before the Raja. He was charged with treason. He knew that he was doomed. The Raja himself conducted the investigation. “Confess your guilt," he cried. " I am guilty indeed," replied the intrepid minister, "of one crime—of having made a wretch like you Raja of Coorg." Linga Raja was mad with rage. Appanna, with several other so called accomplices, was carried out into the jungle to a distance of some miles. There they were nailed to some large trees, the Raja feasting his eyes on the torments of his helpless victims, who died with curses on their lips.

Linga Raja died in 1820 paving way for his eldest son Chikka Veera to the throne.

Chikka Vira Rajendra and Princess Gowramma

Chikka Veera Rajendra, (r.1820-34: died in 1862) the last Raja of Coorg was a man of many contradictions. Having ascended the musnud at an early age of 20 he was bohemian in nature. He loved his drinks and the harem was always full of beautiful women.

As soon as the young Vira Raja, who was about 20 years old, had taken possession of his father's throne and treasure, he destroyed the people who had displeased or thwarted him during the life of his father. Many members of the family of the Coorg Rajas seem to have fallen at that time. One Channa Vira escaped with his family across the Mysore frontier. But to no purpose; his relative knew how to turn to account his connection with the British Government. Letters and messages were dispatched to Mr. Cole, the Resident in Mysore, requesting him to order the seizure of a refractory farmer who had made his escape from Coorg after having committed a crime, and the delivery of the criminal to the servants of the Raja. Mr. Cole had the man apprehended near Periyapatna, and sent him back to Coorg with a letter to the Raja, requesting information as to the guilt of and the punishment awarded to the refugee. No answer was given to the Resident. Channa Vira was carried to Kantamurnad, where he was massacred with his whole family; twenty two souls on one day.

After this inaugural bloodshed, the new Raja seems to have shown less cruelty than his father or uncle. An intelligent Brahman, intimately acquainted with Coorg affairs, estimated the victims of Dodda Vira Raja's reign at about five thousand ; Linga Raja, he thought, had not killed more than three thousand, or perhaps three thousand five hundred : and the late Raja had not destroyed more than fifteen hundred lives ,if so many. Still, the last man was a greater curse upon Coorg than his predecessors. Less cruel he appears to have been.

But, if less cruel, Vira Raja, young as he was at his accession to the government of Coorg, became a monster of sensuality. He kept the youngest of his father's wives for his use and increased his establishment of concubines to about one hundred.

He had reportedly been influenced greatly by his wily minister Kunta Basava who was lame. Basava was the boyhood friend of Viraraja and had been brought up in the palace as a boy who looked after the dogs and the stables. He was very loyal to his friend and encouraged the vices of his royal buddy. He rose to become a minister under Viraraja which was against the wishes of his court and the people. The fall of Viraraja can greatly be attributed to the undue influence of Basava and his actions.

Viraraja caused his sister Devammaji and her husband Channa Basava to flee the country for life leaving behind their young child who was later murdered by Vira Raja. He also got Muddayya, his munshi and the brother of Channa Basava killed by Kunta Basava.

Repeated advices by the Madras government for good governance went unheeded and this led to the fall of Vira raja.

When Casamajor the Resident requested the Raja to treat Devammaji and the other members of his family kindly, he answered that he required no such admonitions ; but as for Devammaji and her family, they were all dead long since. This was the most barefaced lie. Devammaji indeed, and her sister Mahadevammaji had been murdered, probably before the end of 1832, a month or two before Mr. Casamajor's visit, but her three children were still alive, and were murdered at Nalknad when the British troops crossed the frontiers of Coorg.(Mr. Casamajor, Resident of Mysore was later posted to Travancore-Cochin as Resident)

Devammaji and her sister Mahadeviammaji were hanged by Kunta Basava with the help of a eunuch at Mercara fort at the instance of the Raja. Assuming that their lives will be spared, a scared Devammaji disclosed the place where all her treasures and jewels given by her late father were stored. These were duly taken over by Viraraja.

Similarly, all the family members of Dodda Vira Raja who were put up at Nalknad Palace were disposed of by the executioners and were duly supervised by Kunta Basava, the cruel Dewan of the Rajah.

As the situations worsened, the British government was keen to restore order and to give peaceful times to the people of Coorg. The personal conference of Mr. Casamajor with the Raja in the beginning of 1833 having proved fruitless, the Resident returned to Mysore. Since the Raja had taken a personal dislike to Mr. Casamajor, Mr. Graeme, the Resident at Nagpore, then residing for the benefit of his health at Bangalore, was requested to make a last attempt at an amicable settlement.

Veera Raja was unwilling to meet an English representative, seized and kept in durance two native envoys of Mr. Graeme, named Dara Sait, a Parsee merchant of Tellicherry, and Kalpully Karunakara Menon, a Sheristadar of the Collector of Malabar, who had gone to Coorg. (It may be noted that Karunakara Menon is the same person who was the villain in the defeat and murder of Pazhassi Rajah)

The Raja allowed Data Sait to return to Tellicherry, but he refused Karunakara Menon to set at liberty until the Raja's sister and husband were given up to him by the Government. Having an extraordinary idea of his power and the strength of his country, he resolved on war. He addressed the most insolent letters to Sir F. Adam, Governor of Madras, and to Lord W, Bentinck, the Governor General. He also issued offensive proclamations against the British Government.

Infuriated by all these, the Governor General asked Col. JS Fraser (later the Resident of Travancore- Cochin and a General) Political Agent at Mysore to invade Coorg and to take the Raja a prisoner.

The invading force numbered six thousand men, and was placed under Brigadier Lindsay, in whom was vested the supreme command of the expedition, whilst Col. Fraser was to accompany him in the capacity of Political Agent of the Governor General for Coorg affairs. On the 4th of April 1834, the force in four columns moved forward and met with opposition of varying degrees. Many Coorg forces surrendered and the Raja released Karunakara Menon. However, the Raja himself had not placed himself to the British Government. On the 6th of April, the Union Jack flew at the Mercara fort.

Vira Raja, at the commencement of the war, had removed to his palace at Nalknad, a place almost inaccessible to an army. He had taken with him his women, his band, his treasures and what remained of the Coorg Raja's families, that he might destroy them all if necessary, in order to render it impossible for the English Government to transfer the Principality or the property of the murdered Devammaji to any other heir of Dodda Vira Rajendra, and thus secure his wealth and his country to himself.

The Raja surrendered on the 11th of April after much bloodshed. His close aid and Dewan Kunta Basava on whose head an amount of Rs 1000 had been declared was found hanging on a tree under mysterious circumstances.

By a proclamation of the Governor General, Coorg was brought directly under the Honourable East India Company on the 7th of May 1834, as endorsed by the Chiefs of Coorg.

“On the 12th of May 1834, the he ex-Raja rode away through the town of Mercara, ordering the band to strike up 'the British Grenadier,' as if he had no sense of his fall. A number of his wives accompanied him. In their palkis and his own he concealed vast sums of money in gold, so that the bearers could hardly carry their loads. At the first halting place beyond the frontier of Coorg, at Sirlecote, he buried a great quantity of treasure, for he found the concealment no longer safe, as he was allowed to carry away only ten thousand rupees. A certain Karyagara from Nalknad, who accompanied the Raja, afterwards helped himself to a large amount of this treasure, and when the secret oozed out, he found it necessary to inform Captain Le Hardy that he knew of treasure secreted by the Raja. An elephant was despatched to the eastward under the guidance of the honest Coorg, who faithfully delivered to the Company all he had left there, and received a reward of Rs. 1,000 for his loyalty and honesty. Gold coins were handed about rather freely at Nalknad and are not yet scarce in certain houses.”

Princess Victoria Gowramma c 1835

Vira Raja was sent from Bangalore to Vellore and finally to Benares with his family members on a monthly pension of 6000 pounds.

The British Government confiscated the money deposited in Government securities by his uncle Dodda Vira Raja ; still the Raja was in possession of the valuable jewelry of his murdered cousin Devammaji, which, together with the money carried away from Coorg, enabled him to play, though under Government surveillance, the role of a rich Indian Prince, and to keep up through paid agents a secret correspondence with Coorg, reviving from time to time rumours of his return to the Principality which caused no little anxiety to the English Superintendent of Coorg. When the ex-Raja was convinced of the hopelessness of ever regaining his Principality, he demanded the payment of the capital of Rs.680, 010, the inheritance of his cousin Devammaji, the interest of which he drew up to 1833 through Messrs. Binny & Co. in Madras. But in vain.

In 1852, Veera Raja got permission from Lord Dalhousie to proceed to England with his favourite daughter Gauramma who was 10 years old for her education. Veera Raja wanted her to adopt Christian faith. In 1852, Queen Victoria who had a liking for Gauramma got her baptized by the Arch Bishop of Canterbury and gave the name Victoria. She eventually married an English Captain and had a daughter. Her married life was an unhappy one and she died in 1864.Vira Raja died in 1859 under mysterious circumstances while on way to the bank to operate his safe deposit lockers.

Thus ended another interesting chapter of the history of Coorg and the times of a man who dazzled much in the blinding flashes of the enigma we call life.

Postscript:

Below is the letter as appeared in the Daily News, London of November 18, 1856 from Vira Raja explaining himself.

A Prince dethroned by The East India Company

To

The Editor of the Daily News

Sir, Permit me to occupy a little of your valuable space, by calling your readers' attention to the proceedings of the Honourable East India Company. I have been given to understand that the actions of that body in many instances are somewhat illiberal, but I would submit that in my own case they are particularly so; and certainly not in accordance with my own ideas of justice.

I am by birth and descent the rightful Rajah of Coorg, a mountainous principality in the south-west of India, and for thirteen years previously to the 24th April, 1834, I was an independent Hindoo prince and sovereign in alliance with the Honourable East India Company's Government, and as such was almost universally loved, respected, and even reverenced by my subjects. My ancestors were of vast service to the Company, in fact, my late uncle rendered them such assistance in the year 1799, that they were enabled to cope with and finally completely overthrow the famed Tippoo Sultan, with whom the Company were at war, almost without intermission, from the year 1782 to 1799. That prince was master of all the coast provinces lying between the western mountains and the sea, and possessed all the intervening country from thence to the Carnatic, one solitary spot only excepted. That spot was the principality of Coorg; and while the Rajah, my uncle, denied the British troops entrance and exit, Tippoo Sultan's dominions were impregnable; but when the Company entered into a treaty with the Rajah of Coorg, he allowed the Bombay army under the command of General Abercrombie to pass through Coorg, forming a junction with the army of Lord Cornwallis, who, thus timely and powerfully reinforced, completely defeated Tippoo Sultan, and dictated a peace under the walls of Seringapatam, by which he ceded half his dominions unconditionally to the Company.

In consequence of this the Company entered into a treaty with the Rajah and his heirs forever ; which said treaty was to the effect that the Coorg territory should receive from the East India Company whatever assistance was needed, and in fact expressing the warmest and most enduring friendship for my uncle the Rajah and his successors. I myself have rendered the Company services on numerous occasions, and have received testimonials from them of a most flattering nature; but during the last few years of my reign their behaviour towards me materially changed; and eventually led to my dethronement and banishment. In the year 1830, Chenna Basava (then one of my subjects) married my sister, Dewa Ammajee (although much against my wishes, and she was his second wife from our family, the first having died). In consequence of his being connected with royal blood, I provided for him from my own private purse in a manner becoming his station in life, and installed him in a suitable mansion a short distance from my capital.

Things went on very well for some short time, but eventually it would appear that he became dissatisfied with his (supposed), subordinate position, and impatient of control; in consequence of which he, one night, drugged two of the officers in attendance upon him, bound one, hand and foot, and suspended him from the rafters of the house, where he was found dead in the morning; after which, Chenna Basawa made off with his wife towards the Mysore country. By stratagem he managed to pass a great distance unmolested, until he reached the barrier between my country and Mysore; on arriving there, however, he met with opposition, as the officer in command, suspecting something wrong, attempted to detain him. He was immediately shot dead by Chenna Basawa, and another officer, who offered resistance, met with a similar untimely fate.

When these facts were communicated to me I immediately sent a formal demand to the Honourable East India Company (to whose territory he had fled) to surrender Chenna Basawa as a prisoner, to be tried for the murders he had committed ; to which they replied that they could not deliver up a party who had fled to them for protection. I afterwards, on several occasions, made similar requests, but with the same ill success. This preyed on my mind exceedingly, particularly as the outrages committed by Chenna Basawa were frequently commented on by my subjects; and therefore, instead of my anger being appeased by frequent allusions to this circumstance, it was constantly aroused, particularly as all my attempts were futile. Some months after this event, a party arrived at Coorg, alleging that he came from Malabar for the purpose of seeing Mr. Graeme (a member of the Madras Government); but, as he had no credentials, I thought it probable he was a spy, and ordered him to be detained as a hostage to compel the Company to do me justice by delivering up Chenna Basawa and I was assured by those around me that this step would be the means of effectually accomplishing the object. To my surprise, however, the Company merely sent a formal demand for their messenger (as he afterwards in reality turned out to be), which, not being complied with, was followed by another. This I likewise considered I was not bound to obey. In consequence I was declared to be no longer an ally of the Honourable East India Company, and informed that my territories were annexed to the British possessions. Without any further notice an army was despatched against me, and troops entered my country at five different points. Finding myself in actual hostile collision with the British Government (whom I had been taught to consider from a child as my friends and protectors), I ordered flags of truce to be despatched, and surrendered myself.

This was done for the purpose of saving bloodshed, as the onslaught would otherwise have been terrible. The Coorgs had congregated in an immense body, and were all armed to the teeth, prepared to do the most deadly execution. My palace was searched by the troops, and the valuables taken there from to the extent of £30,000, and the proceeds divided among the soldiery as prize-money.

Thus I became a state prisoner, and was hurried out of a country which had given me birth, amidst the lamentations of thousands of my subjects, who hovered around my cortege, weeping and bemoaning my hapless fate. Such expressions you will easily conceive, sir, however gratifying to the recollection now, then only served to render my position less endurable. In addition to this mark of respect from the poorer classes of my subjects, some hundreds of the nobility signed a memorial (which was thrust into my hand while I was being hurried away) expressing the most heartfelt sorrow at my departure, and concluding with a hope that my exile would be but temporary, and that I should return to my subjects again as their King, with renewed honour, and such expressions of kindness which made my heart, already filled with grief, ready to burst with feelings such as no words can express. For fourteen years I was a prisoner at Benares, separated from all that was most dear to me. Permission was ultimately given to me by the Company for leave of absence for twelve months ; and I came to England for the purpose of obtaining some permanent provision for myself and infant daughter, and to prosecute my claims against the Company, which consist in my being entitled to £180,000 sterling, the amount of bonds or promissory notes which I hold of theirs, and which said amount (in rupees) was absolutely paid and advanced by my ancestors and myself as a loan at a stipulated interest. The said interest, however, the Company has refused to pay since the year 1834. But this is not all. As my leave of absence expired in March last, and I did not think it advisable to return until some decisive step had been taken, I applied to the Directors for a prolongation of my leave, and in reply I received not only a positive refusal, but was informed, in conclusion, that my pension would not be continued, actually leaving me without any pecuniary resources whatever. To make the already overflowing cup of bitterness more galling, I am described in Thornton's History of British India as tyrannical, haughty, and everything that a prince or ruler ought not to be, and in fact that my whole life was one of vice and infamy ; but from the foregoing you will easily perceive that such is false, and the historian, in chronicling these words, must certainly have endeavoured to dish up details relative to myself in such a manner as to please the parties for whom his work was written—not knowing or thinking that the party on whom he had lavished so many disgraceful epithets would ever be in this country to confront him, and not only to deny the truth of the statement, but to be willing, ready, and able to prove, that there is no foundation for that which he has written. The same writer has stated that the inhabitants of Coorg wished to become subjects of the Honourable East India Company; but this is not true either. That they submitted I will admit; but wherefore? They had lost their own sovereign, and as the weaker party, and without a leader to direct them, were forced to give into the stronger, let their feelings be what they might. The above observations will doubtless convince your readers that everything has been done to trample upon my feelings during my exile, and to paint me as an object unworthy the consideration or sympathy of an Englishman ;but I am here, Mr. Editor, with a conscience guiltless of any crime or offence even, other than as above expressed and explained. I cannot conceive I have in any way infringed upon the Company's rights, or broken the treaty which my ancestors made with them. But I will pass this over: my kingdom has been taken from me, and I am an exile. I require only that which I am in every respect entitled to by the law of this land, by the law of nations and justice. I humbly but heartily appeal to the British public, through the medium of your valuable columns, to assist me in promoting my claims; and, from the hospitality I have already received, I feel sure that my entreaties will not be in vain. In conclusion, it may not be irrelevant to mention that I have received the utmost kindness and condescension from her most gracious Majesty Queen Victoria, to whose care I with the utmost reliance commend my daughter. That amiable Queen stood sponsor to my child at her baptism, which was solemnized ten months ago; and at my wish and request she is being brought up in the Christian faith, which will, I hope, arm her with fortitude and resignation, and render her fitted for that life which is to come. I doubt not she will realize a fond father's most sanguine hopes and expectations; and in following the example of so excellent a Queen, she will be fitted for a happier and a better world.

My gratitude to the English nation as a body can but cease with my life ; and even then I shall perchance leave one behind who will live to show her own sentiments when my ashes rest in peace. She will then vindicate my past actions, and no doubt will convince Englishmen that my faults were not of the heart, and that a too confiding nature only had been the cause of my ruin, dethronement, and exile.

I have the honour to remain, sir, your obedient humble servant.

Veer Rajinder Wudair,
Once Rajah of Coorg.
23, Onslow-Square, Brompton, Nov. 17, 1853.

References:

1. Mysore and Coorg Volume III by Lewis Rice
2. Coorg and its Rajahs by an Officer 1857
3. Chikka Veera Rajendra, a novel by Masti Venkatesha Iyengar.
4. Nuggets of Coorg history and Victoria Gauramma, both by CP Belliappa
4. Other internet sources.

Palakkad,South India

31st May 2010

Random Photos

2010-04-30T07:04:00.000-07:00

My elder brother ,Vijay gets married. Kilimanoor Palace 1981

Vijay's son Sreejith's marriage. Chirakkal Kovilakom, April 2010

Large Chira (pond) belonging to Chirakkal Royal family, Kannur

Hot afternoon-from the room with a view- Palakkad ,30th April 2010

Cool evening- rain clouds seen from the same room- Palakkad, 30th April 2010-

Palakkad,South India

30th April 2010

“It is the best of times. It is the worst of times”

2010-03-30T22:00:00.000-07:00

A rainy evening in Palakkad with the sun setting

Living in Palakkad, quite strangely I am reminded of Charles Dickens, the immortal writer. Last week, as I took my son to the small farm behind our house, as a project of the “save earth” campaign to free the space of plastic wastes, I told him of Dickens’s novel Nicholas Nickleby and about a character Wackford Squeers, a cruel school teacher who used to take advantage of the orphaned boys by giving them all menial jobs.

Secondly, as Dickens described, I thought that we in Palakkad are living in the “best of times as also in the worst of times.”(Charles Dickens began his book, “A Tale of Two Cities,” with the following words: “It was the best of times. It was the worst of times. It was the age of wisdom. It was the age of foolishness. It was the epoch of belief. It was the epoch of incredulity. It was the season of hope. It was the season of despair.”)

What made me think as above was the things happening around. Palakkad was reporting very high day temperatures with the mercury soaring high. Then, there was a brutal murder in the neighborhood in Puthur. As we returned after a drive, we saw an unusual crowd of Policemen and the locals in the area and learned that a housewife had been murdered during day time by intruders who came for theft. Today we read from newspapers that the prime suspect died in police custody ostensibly due to the third degree torture by the police. All these news are sickening to the core.

Violin concert by the maestro :Dr.L.Subramaniam at Puthur.

Again, last week, it rained cats and dogs one evening bringing much relief to the heat. In Puthur we also witnessed a music concert by the legendary violist L .Subramaniam and his wife Kavita Krishnamurthy at the Devi temple premises. The world renowned maestro, widely acclaimed in the West as much as in the East gave a stellar musical performance. Hearing such virtuosos is an experience because they immediately make us feel the touch of a genius and remind us that they are made of a different stuff than what the common folks are made of. He was ably assisted by his son Ambi Subramaniam an upcoming little master and his celebrity wife Kavita, musician and playback singer.

The administrators of this little temple in Puthur seem great organizers as they bring world renowned musical masters to this little known place .Last year the place was blessed with the presence of the great master Hariprasad Chaurasia with his divine flute. In 2008, it was the turn of another master, Pundit Shivkumar Sharma on Santoor.

I can’t complain. This is a happening place. Today, my son’s 10th class examinations are also coming to a close. “It is the best of times. It is the worst of times”

Palakkad, South India
31st March 2010.

Vizzy and an old letter from BCCI

2010-02-26T07:08:00.000-08:00

BCCI letter of 1937 addressed to Vizzy by Anthony De Mello

Sir Vijayananda Gajapathi Raju, Maharajkumar of Vizianagaram (Vizzy)

The Board of Control for Cricket in India, BCCI, needs no introduction to the sports lovers of this Country. It is the richest sports organization among other national sports councils in the world. Its annual income exceeds Rs 10000 million. The global media rights for TV transmissions for the games played in India will fetch it USD 610 Million from the production house, Nimbus over the five years upto 2011. Then there is USD 220 Million for the telecast of one day match rights to be received from Zee Telefilms. These are exclusive of other sponsorships and IPL incomes which run to millions of US dollars. One really wonders at the financial clout of BCCI and at the scope for great contributions to sports for which it is capable of.

The BCCI was formed in December 1928. Anthony de Mello, an Anglo Indian, born in Karachi was the founder secretary. R.E. Grant Govan, an English businessman from Delhi was the first president. The Maharajah of Patiala and the Maharajkumar of Vizianagram among others representing the local boards of various provinces and princely states were instrumental in taking this initiative.

I have, in my collection, an official letter of BCCI dated 29th June 1937, addressed to Sir Vijayananda Gajapathi Raju, Maharajkumar of Vizianagram by Anthony de Mello, the Honorary Secretary. The scan of the letter is published herewith. It conveys the information of the resignation of Vizzy as the President of the United Provinces Cricket Association and the election of Raja Syed Mohammad Sa'adat Ali Khan in the place.

I found this letter sent during the formative years of BCCI quite informative. The personalities appearing in the letter are the following.

Sir Vijayananda Gajapathi Raju, (1905-1965), was the son of Pusapati Vijayarama Gajapathi Raju the ruler of Vizianagram, and was popularly known as Maharajkumar of Vizianagram or Vizzy. A man of immense wealth and influence, he was a great patron of the game and was a player, administrator and a politician of significance.

Vizianagram, (Vijayanagaram) the erstwhile princely state forms a part of the district of Andhra Pradesh near the Bay of Bengal. In 1827 Lord Northbrook obtained for Maharajah Vijay Rama Gajapati Raju III of Vizianagram the title of His Highness, with entitlement for a 13 gun salute.

After the death of his father in 1922, Vizzy moved to the family estates in Benares and married the eldest daughter of the ruler of the zamindari land of Kashipur.

Vizzy played only 3 tests and led the Indian tour to England in 1936. During the year, he was knighted by King Edward VIII in the King's Birthday Honours. (Ref: Supplement to the London Gazette, 23 June, 1936.)

He was the President of BCCI from 1954-1957 and served it with great honours. He was instrumental for the development of cricket in the erstwhile United Provinces and the post independent Uttar Pradesh.

Vizzy was the minister of justice in the United Provinces during 1936 and was an MLA too. He became a member of the Lok Sabha from Visakhapatnam in 1960.

The Vizzy trophy cricket tournament is named after the memory of this great patron of the game.

Raja Syed Mohammad Sa'adat Ali Khan was the Taluqdar of Nanpara and Mohammadi in the United Provinces. A Taluqdars was a land holder with administrative power over a district of 84 villages in the United Provinces. The Taluqdar was required to collect taxes, maintain law and order, and provide military supplies and manpower to the provincial government. A Taluqdar was next only to a Raja in extent of land control and social status and was directly under the provincial governor.

Col.HH Nawab Hamidullah Khan, Ruler of Bhopal (r.1926-1949)

President of BCCI and Ruler of Bhopal :Col. HH Nawab Hamidullah Khan was the then President of BCCI. He ascended to the throne in 1926 on the abdication of his mother Sultan Kaikhusrau Jahan Begum who ruled Bhopal from 1901. He had been the Hon. ADC to the Viceroy of India and the Chancellor of the Chamber of Princes.

It is interesting to note that Abida Sultan, heiress and eldest daughter of Nawab Hamidullah Khan, gave up her right to the throne and opted for Pakistan in 1950. Her younger sister Begum Sajida succeeded her to the throne of Bhopal .

Abida Sultan migrated to Pakistan when she was 37 and a mother of a young son and joined the country’s Foreign Service. Her son, Shaharyar Khan was a career diplomat and became the Foreign Secretary of Pakistan and also the Chairman of the Pakistan Cricket Board. If his mother had not given up her claim to the throne, Shaharyar Khan would have become the Nawab of Bhopal as well as the Nawab of Kurwai, since his father was the Nawab of Kurwai.In his post retirement he has penned various books including The Begums of Bhopal -a history of the princely state of Bhopal-and Princess Abida Sultaan - Memoirs of a Rebel Princess, which is the biography of his mother.

Begum Sajida later married Iftikhar Ali Khan the last ruling Nawab of Pataudi. Mansoor Ali Khan, the titular Nawab of Pataudi and former Indian Cricket Captain was her only son. Begum Sajida died in 1995 and Mansoor Ali Khan, husband of Sharmila Tagore and father of the noted Bollywood actor Saif Ali Khan, is now regarded as the titular head of the royal family of Bhopal .

Grant Govan, First President of BCCI

Anthony De Mello, Founder Secretary of BCCI

Anthony de Mello (1900-1961)

Founder Secretary of the BCCI, de Mello was an able sports administrator. He was also the President of BCCI from 1946 to 1951. It was during his tenure that India visited England twice and the English team came here for the first time to play official Test matches in 1932-33.

De Mello was instrumental in the formation of the CCI (Cricket Club of India) in 1933 along with others who founded the BCCI. Lord Brabourne, Governor of Bombay, influenced by De Mello had granted land to CCI for the construction of the stadium.

In 1934, De Mello submitted the proposal for the national championship in cricket which later became the Ranji Trophy. He was a bowler worthy of mention and played 11 first class matches.
He also served as the organizing secretary of the first Asian Games at Delhi in 1951.

Palakkad, South India
25th February 2010

photos courtesy: wikipaedia/internet

Some Stamp Papers of the Princely States of Cochin and Travancore

2010-01-30T19:40:00.000-08:00

Stamp paper of value 32 puttans.

The studies on the court fee stamps, revenue stamps and other stamp papers of the pre- independent days of India can be of much interest to enthusiasts. Those pertaining to the princely states of Cochin and Travancore and done with much aesthetics and are of great historical importance.

The stamp papers were designed by the British as a means to collect taxes from residents of some of the Princely States as early as 1797. The designs of these papers included the name of the state as well as the amount of tax imposed.

Early examples of stamped paper from British India and the Princely States were simpler and often colorless, much like a notary's seal. Later, these were replaced by typeset or engraved stamps. Subsequently, color was added, and printings for many of the states were imported from Europe.

I have gone through some of my collections and found the portrait series of Cochin much to my liking.

Sir Sri Rajarshi Rama Varma I, Raja of Cochin, 1895-1914

(Ozhinja Valiya Thampuran )

Sir Sri Rama Varma II, RajaMaharaja of Cochin, 1914-1932

(Madrasil Theeppetta Thampuran )

Sir Sri Kerala Varma II, Maharaja of Cochin 1941-43

(Midukkan Thampuran)

Sir Sri Ravi Varma Kunjappan Thampuran, Maharaja of Cochin, 1943-46

Sir Sri Kerala Varma III,1946-48 ,(Ikyakeralam Thampuran)

the last Cochin ruler to be portrayed on stamps

Travancore Stamp Paper 1920

Travancore Copying paper of value 3 1/2 chuckram

Travancore- Cochin non judicial paper of value 45 rupees

Palakkad, South India.

31st January 2009.

In the ancient land of the great pyramids

2009-12-29T19:54:00.000-08:00

Before the great pyramids with Yousef, the guide.

Last July, I was in India on annual holidays and returned to Dubai after a month. In August, I had to come again because I wanted to attend my niece’s marriage as also to celebrate the 90th birthday-Navathy- of my father. I thought of saving some money and booked the tickets by FlyDubai, a budget airline which had just announced its inaugural flight to Coimbatore. When the journey day approached, FlyDubai advised the cancellation of the flight as it could not get through some official formalities. Since the Onam holidays were approaching, I had to book tickets through another airline costing a lot more. However, the whole ordeal threw in some surprises too. Besides refunding the money paid for booking in full and apologizing for the inconvenience, FlyDubai graciously offered a free return ticket to any of the sectors it was operating.

Searching the sectors, I decided to fly to Alexandria in Egypt so that I could take a train to Cairo to visit the great Pyramids, a fascination since childhood. I had been privileged to visit the Taj Mahal and the Eiffel Tower in the past and the prospect of visiting another wonder of the world offered some thrill. Besides, the thought that the great pyramids are the only remaining structure from the wonders of the ancient world made me choose this destination. To me it was a dreamland, of Ptolemy, of Cleopatra, of Pyramids, of the great Pharaohs and the immortal Nile from the banks of which a great civilization shaped.

My official assignment in Dubai was coming to an end and I decided to complete this journey before returning to India. On breaking the news to my cousin Adithya Varma, doing business in Dubai, he jumped in the wagon with me.

The formalities of an Egyptian visa from Dubai were very simple. The visa fee was 95 Dirhams and we could get the tourist visa on the same day. I made the hotel bookings through the internet for Alexandria and Cairo.

November is a good month to visit Egypt as the climate is cool. Alexandria is four hours’ flight from Dubai. The small airport was quite far from the buzzing city and we travelled over 50 km through the desert road to reach the city centre. The taxi driver with whom I had to haggle on the fare was insistent that we travel by road to Cairo despite my telling him that we were travelling by train. Probably, he gets some commission from the bus operator, an essential part of Egyptian dealings- All taxi drivers in Egypt, I found out later, try to over-charge the tourist but I must add that they are quite polite unlike many others we find in our own country.

Chief physician of the Pharaoh and his wife depicted before her burial chamber

I found that the officials at the airport and the railway station were very friendly and were very happy to welcome a “Hindiyaan”. The non-stop train journey from Alexandria to Cairo by a first class air-conditioned coach was quite pleasant. It traverses 200 plus kilometers in just over two hours and costs a mere 50 Egyptian pounds-roughly 400 Indian rupees-

Cairo

The large metropolis is quite chaotic near the railway station Cairo has a population of 7 million and about 10 million inhabitants reside just outside the city. This largest metropolis in Africa also has a metro for public transport which is the only one of its kind in the continent.

Taxi ride in Cairo reminds us of the roads of old Delhi or Chennai. Our hotel was near the city centre and was close to many landmarks like the Cairo museum. Despite the limitations with the English language, the hotel staff was found very helpful.

The next day, after breakfast, we proceeded by taxi to see the great pyramids. Giza is about 50 km from Cairo and the first sight of the great pyramids in the desert against the canopy of the blue sky and seemingly protected by the sphinx was quite breath-taking. One feels a great reverence for the ancient civilization and wonders at these great structures which lasted the onslaught of 46 centuries. Since these pyramids were built, these remained the tallest structures on this planet for the next 38 centuries. Just less than 150 meters height, the great pyramid of Khufu, the pharaoh, took the work of 100000 men over 20 years! Each of the stone blocks of the pyramid weighed over 3 tons and the great work of the ancient architects was stupendous by even modern standards.

We can hire horses or camels to move around the pyramids. Our driver had taken us to a tour operator’s shop where various perfumes were sold. He showed great hospitality to lure us into his offers. We politely declined those and instead opted for an old guide who was actually thrust upon by the officials. At the entrance, the official collecting entry tickets simply handed over our receipts to a guide of his choice- from whom he obviously gets a tip- and we followed him to collect our portion of the receipt. He did not part with the receipts till we used him as our guide. The old guide was amusingly arrogant, stubborn and greedy though very well informed.

We also went to see the step pyramids built by Djoser, the Pharaoh around 2650 B.C at Saqqara. In earlier times, the Step Pyramid complex was enclosed by a 30-foot wall and included courtyards and temples, covering nearly 40 acres. Remnants of these are still visible here.
On the roads near Saqqara, we see villagers happily travelling on donkey back. Time seemed to have stood still over centuries on this part of the world as I observed the farmers going to the markets on donkey carts filled with various vegetables like cabbages, carrots and cauliflowers.
The Egyptian museum, which we visited the next day was built during the reign of Khedive Abbass Helmi II in 1897, and opened in 1902. It has 107 halls. At the ground floor we can see the huge statues. The upper floor houses small statues, jewels, Tutankhamen treasures and the mummies. The most famous group of artifacts in the world probably is that associated with the young King Tutankhamen’s tomb. It was quite a feeling and revelation as we went on seeing the collection from the tomb of the young Pharaoh excavated by Howard Carter, the famous Egyptologist.

A visit to the Pharaonic Village- a modern museum depicting the times of ancient Egypt – was very revealing. We are taken around a small private island in the Nile in which we saw faithful reproductions of buildings, clothing and lifestyles of ancient Egypt. We also saw a complete replica of the tomb of Tutankhamen and museums relating to different periods of Egyptian history.

A visit to Cairo can not be over without seeing the famous Khan el-Khalili market, once known as the Turkish bazaar. You get to have a feel of the busiest markets in the world by visiting the place.

Incidentally, we could not enjoy any Indian food while in Cairo. There are far too less Indian restaurants around. However, we relished the Egyptian breads and various other delicacies.

Heiroglyphics letters seen atop a door of the burial chamber

The Egyptian Museum

Step pyramid of Djoser, Saqqara

Villager taking a stroll, Saqqara

Local bread-making at Pharaonic village

Alexandria

Returning to Alexandria on the Mediterranean cost, we saw some historical monuments. The city found by Alexander the great is a sprawling big metropolis with a great coastline.

Pompy’s pillar is a 25 meter Aswan red-granite column with a circumference of 9 metres. It was constructed in honor of the Emperor Diocletian in the 4th century.

The catacomb of Kom El-Shuqafa is one of Alexandria’s most memorable monuments and one of the seven wonders of the middle Ages. Built in the first century, the catacomb is composed of a ground level construction that probably served as a funerary chapel, a deep spiral stairway and three underground levels for the funerary ritual and entombment. Identified as "a tour-de-force of rock-cut architecture which would be remarkable in any period," the Great Catacomb defies comprehensible description. A visit is the best way to understand it.

We stayed in a good hotel near the Corniche. Alexandria seemed more expensive than Cairo.
While wandering around, I had one of the best Turkish coffee I had ever taken, from a way side small shop near our hotel.

Ayman, our driver in Alexandria was a Christian who was curious to know if I had some liquor left after our trip. The half empty Cognac bottle I gave him the next day seemed to have pleased him immensely. He was quite jovial and generous while driving us back to the airport.
On a clear-weather day, as the aircraft took off to Dubai from Alexandria, I could see the vast Saharan desert below. The vast stretches of arid land below with no life in sight offered a stunning view and I must admit that I was quite terrified to look down on the boundless sand tunes.

Making of a mummy- painting at Pharaonic village-

Pompey's pillar, Alexandria

By the mediterranean, Alexandria

The great Sahara seen from the aircraft

On return, the lingering impressions of Egypt have been one of great hospitality, of respect for heritage and of the smiles on the face of all those contented Egyptians.

I wish all my dear readers great peace, happiness and prosperity during 2010 and beyond!

Palakkad, South India
30th December 2009.

Pazhassi Raja –Pyche Rajah- and his times as chronicled by Lachlan Macquarie , a soldier

2009-11-05T06:10:00.000-08:00

Kerala Varma Pazhassi Raja

The Malayalam film Pazhassi Raja has been creating many headlines in the media, and apparently there is a revival of interest about the historical settings of the twilight years of the 18th century South India. A peep into some of the actual recordings of those days as history unfolded itself shall be quite appropriate and interesting.
One of the remarkable attributes of the Englishmen had been the habit of writing daily journals. This was especially true of the early travellers and adventurers of the empire. These journals have helped us in no small measure to understand history and to learn about the people and their lives of those far away times .While the writing of journals was rather a norm with the Englishman, the habit was more of an exception with the Indian. A classic exception is that of the journals of Anandaranga Pillai who was a translator- Dubash- in the service of the French East India Company and who was a confidante of the then French Governor, Dupleix. He wrote these private diaries during the period AD 1736-1761 which give exceptional information of those times.
Another such journal by a remarkable soldier-turned-statesman, Lachlan Macquarie (1761–1824) who participated in one of the battle against Pazhassi Raja gives interesting and informative accounts of the battle from the point of view of an eye witness.

Lachlan Macquarie(1761-1824)

Born in Scotland in 1761, Lachlan Macquarie joined the British army at the age of 15.In 1777 he went to America and got commissioned in 1781 with the 71st regiment. After a stint in New York and Jamaica he returned home.

In 1777, he again took up a commission as lieutenant in the 77th regiment which saw his long association with India. He was present at the siege of Cannanore in 1790 when Arakkal Beebi surrendered.( In 1790 Minicoy was surrendered to the English East India Company by the Ali Raja of Cannanore, Arakkal Beevi II. However, the Ali Raja was allowed to administer Minicoy in return for a tribute to the East India Company.) He was at Seringapatam in 1791 and later for the siege of 1799. In between he was at Cochin in 1795 and later joined the army that went after Pazhassi Raja in 1797.In 1788 he became a captain and by 1791 had been promoted a Major. The next year he was promoted as a Dy.Pay master general and made his riches during the battle of Seringapatam in which Tippoo was killed by receiving prize money of 1300 British pounds.

In 1801 he was the military secretary to Jonathan Duncan, Governor of Bombay. He was then appointed deputy-adjutant-general to the 8000-strong army, under the command of Major-General David Baird that was sent to Egypt to expel the French. In 1803 he returned to England and Scotland to enjoy the social life and to attend to financial matters in which time he had occasion to be presented to the Queen on two occasions.

Returning to India in 1805, he was promoted to Lt. Colonel of the 73rd regiment and served in north India.

He returned to England in 1807, and married Elizabeth Henrietta Campbell who was a distant cousin to whom he had proposed two yeas earlier. She was aged 29 while he was at a ripe age of 46.

In 1809 Macquarie was appointed Governor of New South Wales. His term of office coincided with an increase in the number of convicts sent to the colony. He found a solution to this by an ambitious programme of starting various public works of new buildings, towns, roads etc to help absorb these numbers. Faced with much opposition from the conservatives, and due to ill health he resigned and returned to his Jarvisfield estate on Mull in 1822 with his wife and son. He died in 1824 while on a trip to London to secure a pension which had been promised.

The Macquarie University in Sydney, Australia is named after him in honour of his development efforts while serving as the Governor of the colony of NSW from 1810 to 1821. The University has a rich source of records on Lachlan Macquarie and his family.

Journals of Lachlan Macquarie, May 1797:

Lachlan Macquarie laid his first wife Jane to rest in Bombay in January 1797 which was a most painful period of his life with its profound sense of loss. Immediately after, he joined the 77th regiment of foot at Cochin and proceeded to Calicut. While at Mahe, Macquarie learned that Governor Jonathan Duncan and Lieutenant General Stuart were in Tellicherry preparing for a military campaign against the Pyché Rajah in the Cottiote region of the Malabar Coast. He volunteered for active service and was given command of the Advance Guard of 700 men, made up of four companies of the 77th Regiment and a battalion of the 3rd Native Infantry Regiment.
Macquarie recorded his experiences during the campaign for the three-week period from 3rd to 22nd of May 1797. From a historic point of view these recordings are quite unique.

May 3 Wednesday!

— This morning at Day–break, the Four Companies of the 77th. Regiment, consisting of 2 Captains, 6 Lieutenants, 13 Serjts., 7 Drumrs. & Fifers, and 200 Rank & File, under my command, marched off from Tellicherry Fort, agreeably to the General orders of yesterday, to form part of the Field Army now assembling at Cottiangurry under the orders of Colonel Alexr. Dow of the Bbay Establishment, for the purpose of prosecuting the War in the Cottiote Country, against the Rebellious Pyché Rajah, now at the head of a large Body of Insurgents. —
The Detachment, after an easy and pleasant march, and crossing one River in Jangars; arrived at Cottiangurry at 8,O'Clock in the morning, and Encamped on the Right of the Line. — This Ground is about 9 miles in a due East direction from Tellicherry. —
Having posted the necessary Guards and dismissed the Detachment to their Tents, I waited on Colonel Dow to report to him my arrival in Camp with the 4 Companies of the 77th. Regiment, and to receive his further orders respecting them. — The Colonel was very glad to see me and expressed great satisfaction at having me thus placed under his command.
The two Brigades of Guns under Capt. Griffiths of the Bbay Artillery, and the Bbay Grenadier Battn. of Sepoys under the command of Major John McDonald, arrived in Camp in a few hours after the 77th. Detachment. —
Lieut. Colonel James Dunlop of the 77th. Regt. arrived also in Camp this afternoon from Tellicherry, being appointed to serve with Colonel Dow's Field Army as second in Command. —
On May 5th Macquarie mentions about commanding the native infantry of 700 men. On 8th, he tells about the amusing incident of the corps of Nairs and Moplahs declining to march, the day being inauspicious to move forward.

The next day, army moved Todicullum, the Capital of the Pyche Rajah, and where he was reported to be present. Six miles into the jungle, they met the enemy which attacked. Later, in an ensuing fight, Capt. Browne, ADC to Col. Dunlop, another sergeant and 16 privates were killed. Storming a mud fort in Mananderry, they lost another 5 men.

On 10th, the army reached Todicullum deserted by the Rajah on learning the arrival of the troupes. Macquarie describes this small jungle town and about Pazhassi’s abode or fortified pagoda. Also he writes about the “dastardly enemy seen sitting like monkeys in the tops of the thickest and highest trees in the jungle, from which they fired in perfect security to themselves “

Macquarie tells about Kannoth Nambiar’s deserted fort, its destruction and about “a very galling fire from along the banks of it from tops of Trees on our whole Line”. Much casualty was incurred with loss of lives of Major Bachelor, 8 NCO’s and many soldiers on the 12th of May.

The journal from 13th to 22nd of May further has interesting incidences and observations about the guerilla warfare and about the personnel.

Those interested can read the details from the following link of the Macquarie University site: http://www.library.mq.edu.au/digital/lema/1797/1797may.html

Dubai, 5th November 2009

Tellicherry Fanam 1805

Note: Pazhassi Raja died fighting the army on 30th November 1805. To commemorate the year of the fall of a thorn from the crown of the empire, a silver coin was issued by the East India Company (Bombay Presidency) with a denomination of 1/5th of a rupee. This silver coin weighing appx. 2.2 grams was minted at Calicut for Tellicherry and bears the letter T and 1805. This coin is also known as Tellicherry Fanam.

Some Questions and Answers

2009-11-02T06:16:00.000-08:00

My cousin Suma started a blog aptly named Aparajitha. She is one who bravely battled polio, graduated and became an accomplished musician. She also paints and despite her severe limitations lives contentedly in Cochin with her parents.

While searching the word Aparajitha, I came across a blog under the same name from a most promising and talented teen-aged girl. She had quoted a questionnaire supposedly asked to a celebrity by a media man and had given her own interesting and most original answers, assuming that these questions were aimed at her.

This made me to think as to how I would have answered these questions, if it were asked to me. I think, by answering these questions, we express our personality to enable a friend or reader to understand us more. I would request my fellow bloggers and readers to answer these questions themselves- whether to publish or not- for the fun of it and for a self analyzis. It can be quite exhilarating.

Here are the questions and my answers.

Fun to you is...

Going for a fair of coins and medals or a book exhibition.

If you were invisible for a day, you would...

Frankly, I would not want to use such a boon. In younger days, probably I would have tried to be adventurous.

The one invention you're really waiting for...

Cure for cancer.

Would you like to be young forever?

No. I want to grow old gracefully.

What are you reading at the moment?

Journals of Lachlan Macquarie (1761-1824, a soldier who fought the Pazhassi Raja in 1797.

Who is your favourite cartoon character?

Asterix and Obelix

The place you really want to visit and why?

Manasa sarovar, with my wife. It shall give a spiritual high with its pristine surroundings.

Which film's hero/heroine do you most identify with?

This may probably change with one’s age. At this point, I am at a loss.

Your idea of a perfect meal?

I no longer crave for one such meal. Any homemade simple Indian meal is fine with me.

Lean or brawny?

I like lean.

Three people from history you'd like to meet?

Alexander the great, Sreeramakrishna Paramahamsa and my paternal grandpa, Kandanchatha Raman Nampoothiri, a great Vedic scholar who died at 45.

Your worst date ever?

I did not have one.

Ethnic wear or Western wear?

Both according to the occasion.

Morning person or night person?

More of a morning person.

What are you addicted to?

My family, especially to my wife, Sindhu.

The naughtiest thing you've ever done?

None to remember. Those were rather childhood pranks.

What's your retirement dream?

Retire to my ancestral place, build a new home, enjoy the visits of children and friends and be helpful to the society at large. I also want to pursue my hobby in medals and to catch up with all the reading. Then, I would want to travel to historic places and do my photography.

Five personal care products you can't do without?

My toothbrush, my laptop, my garments, my chapels and my eye glasses.

Who do you think your partner has a crush on?

Me and Clark Gable.

Your favourite drink?

An occasional Cognac.

The one food you can never say no to?

Haagen Dazs ice cream, though I restrict all my sweet intakes.

Rate in order of importance: fame, money, power.

Power, fame, money.

Your next move?

To let my readers know of my answers.

All the best!

Dubai, November 2, 2009

Travancore connection to the Second Anglo-Afghan War

2009-10-23T08:07:00.000-07:00

Afghanistan

I was amused to see a news item in an English daily about Indians now joining the British Army to fight the Taliban in Afghanistan. They are entitled to sign up as Commonwealth nationals. It is further informed that there were more than 80 Indians in the British army as of March 2009 which obviously may have increased considerably by now.

The report says that Sharat S. Mulchandi, 18, from Karnataka, is undergoing army cadet training at home and plans to join a British infantry regiment when he flies into the UK. 'Pakistan is a breeding ground for terrorists, it's dangerous for India. We will never forget what the fanatics did last year in Mumbai,' The Sunday Express quoted, him, as saying.

Afghanistan and adjoining areas had always been a constant problem for the British Empire over centuries. By 1877, the British in their quest for expanding the empire had grown very suspicious of Russia, which encroached on to its north-west Indian border. The British preferred a friendly Amir in Afghanistan as it was a buffer zone to the British territory. In 1878, the Amir, Sher Ali Khan, was opposed to accept British influence and was inclined towards the Russians. While a Russian mission was invited to Kabul, he refused a mission from the British and denied entry to General Sir Neville Chamberlain. Thereupon, the British decided to invade Afghanistan and the conflict is known as the second Anglo-Afghan war (1878-79). Though none of the contestants could be said to have won the war, the British forces emerged victorious in many encounters. However, they failed to install a British ambassador at Kabul but crowned an Amir who was acceptable to their Asian interests

The then viceroy in India, Lord Lytton, of course sought financial and military help from the ruling princes of India who wholeheartedly gave the support by offering to send contingents of their state forces for the Afghanistan campaign.

Travancore too jumped the bandwagon as proved through the following letter dated 13th November 1878, addressed to Mr.J.C. Hannyngton, the acting resident by the then Diwan Nanoo Pillay on behalf of Ayilyam Thirunal Rama Varma Maharajah (1860–80).

Ayilyam Thirunal

Trivandrum,
13.11.1878

My dear Sir,

On an occasion like this when a misguided frontier chieftain is disposed to treat with untimely the friendship of the British government which other princes have learned from the experience of years to value of their tower of strength and source of peace and prosperity to their states His Highness the Maharajah feel it His duty to express to His Excellency the Viceroy through proper channel the feelings of distress and pain with which he regards the conduct of the Amir. Such an expression of feelings on the part of the princes while assuring His Excellency of the devoted loyalty and readiness to rally round the imperial throne, should the need arise, may be of use also in dispelling hopes which any designing power may have been deluded into building on their weakness of their allegiance.

His Highness deeply regrets the infatuation which leads the Amir into a contest with a power like the British and hopes the deluded prince may yet appreciate the forbearance which in the confidence of their strength they are extending to him to bring him to reason. But, should a war be necessary to maintain the dignity of the Empire and the complications arise which may require its resources to be supplemented His Highness the Maharajah will only be too glad to have the opportunity of proving his fidelity to this ancient alliance by aiding to the best of his means in any direction in which His Excellency the Viceroy may be please to command feeling that His Highness’ interests are bound up by the stability and honour of the Empire.

Taken under the powerful protection of Her Most Gracious Majesty it has not been necessary for His Highness to maintain a large military force, but such as our Nair brigade is, a Contingent could always be held ready for service under the British flag. His Highness has just learned with much gratification from Major Caulfield the Commandant that the men have volunteered for such service. The British subsidiary force located in the State also could be withdrawn if necessary till peace is restored.

I am commanded to request you to be so kind as to convey the purport of this communication to His Excellency the Viceroy in the most acceptable manner with the expression of His Highness’ sentiments of high consideration and respect.

I remain,
Sd/ N.Nanoo Pillai

To
J.C.Hannyngton Esq.,
Acting British Resident.

(Ref: Archives of the Government of Kerala)

Though many Madras Native Infantry regiments (4th, 11th, 25th and 30th) participated in the campaign with distinction, my searches reveal that the Nair Brigade –one among the Madras Infantry regiments- did not march to Afghanistan.

Afghan campaign Medal (1878-80)

Private Puckajeerao Chowan of 5th Regiment of Bombay Native Infantry
From the medal collections of Murali

Notes:

Diwan Nanoo Pillay(1877-80) served Travancore under Ayilyam Thirunal Rama Varma Maharajah (1860–80). He was a consummate administrator and served the Maharajah during the times of his troubled relations with his brother in law , Kerala Kalidasa Kerala Varma Valia Koil Thampuran who had to be subjected to confinement at home for a period. Diwan Nanoo Pillay handled the issue admirably and diplomatically when the Ranee- Maharajah’s sister – created a scene at the Palace objecting the Valia Koil Thampuran, her husband, being taken away by the police for home confinement at Mavelikkara.

John Child Hannyngton I.C.S, British Resident at the courts of Travancore and Cochin was a Sanskrit scholar and expert on Malayali culture. Apparently he had married from India. His Anglo-Indian grandchild EK Janaki Ammal was the first woman to gain a PhD in Botany in the United States; in 1938. She later became Professor of History at Madras and was the first Director of the Central Botanical Institute, Lucknow. She was also the founder of ethno-botany in India.

As Resident, Hannyngton was signatory to the Periyar Lake lease agreement dated 1st Jan 1886, between the Maharajah of Travancore and the British Government . Interestingly, the lease was for 999 years!

Incidentally, Ram a reader writes to me the following as a comment about my post “Some Royal Correspondence” in which I had mentioned Hannyngton. “I have been reading your most interesting and well written blogs on your ancestors. John Child Hannyngton, who was the resident (4 times), stationed at Travancore, and who is mentioned by you, is my ancestor, I have his letters written to my great grand father E.K.Krishnan with me.”

Shom also wrote thus: Interesting, especially the Hannyngton part. We are Indian descendants of his sojourn in Tellicherry: Acting Judge of Small Cause Court, Tellicherry. 1867: Sub-Collector, Bellary; Acting Collector and Magistrate, Malabar; Judge of Small Cause Court, Tellicherry. 1868: Acting Civil and Sessions Judge, Tellicherry; afterwards at Calicut. 1869

I presume that Ram and Shom are blood related.

Dubai, 23rd October 2009.

Onam week in pictures

2009-09-18T07:59:00.000-07:00

Elephants in procession in Palakkad

Traditional functions on the eve of niece's marriage at Thiruvizha

Niece as part of traditional functions on the eve of marriage

Traditional functions on the eve of niece's marriage

Niece's marriage , 30th August 2009

Maveli visited us with drummers in modern costumes( 2nd Sept 09)

Onappoo at home in Cherthala, 2nd Sept 2009

Traditional Sadya on Dad's navathy 3rd Sept 2009

Kerala, 6th September 2009.

Of Golf and Philosophy

2009-08-20T01:03:00.001-07:00

2004 in Malawi

While I was working in Malawi, Southern Africa, I got introduced to the game of golf. By the time I started understanding the game, it was time for me to pack off. I used to go to the Limbe club, started by the English, where I was a member. Accompanied by my son I had practice sessions on Sunday mornings and the early morning wanderings in the golf course were quite refreshing. On other evenings, with friends we used to have a round of beer after a match at Blantyre club.

Unlike Africa, other countries are far too expensive for someone wanting to take up golf as a past time for fun and exercise. Many countries in Africa with bountiful land, beautiful landscapes, good climate and the English legacy are ideally suited for the game. In India, the game used to be reserved for a few of the rich people and to the bureaucrats who always had much leisure.

What prompted me to think of golf was the news of a rather unknown South Korean golfer by name Y.E.Yang overthrowing the great man Tiger Woods, to win the title in the US PGA Championship on last Sunday. Tiger Woods, as anyone remotely connected to any sports will vouch, is one of the greatest and richest sports icons of all time. He was to win his 15th consecutive major championship in this tournament and was quite at the edge of it.

Alas! It was not to be and a David who kept his cool was to defeat this Goliath! Yang, who was two shots adrift of the over night leader Woods held his nerve and went on to win the title by three shots.

I don’t intend to go into the technical aspects of this tournament but to the philosophy of the whole match.

Yang, a rank outsider for the tournament was 37 years old when he became the first Asian male to win one of Golf’s four grand slam events. Till then, he had a lowly 110th rank in the world. He is the son of a vegetable grower and he had not touched a golf club till he was 19. Once he took to the game, he was totally dedicated. He refused to be intimidated by the World no: 1 and showed utter fearlessness when it mattered most.

On winning the title at a time when all pointers were favouring Woods, he said the following:

“I guess the fearlessness comes from the fact that I know, I am doing my dream job.
Everyday, I am living my dream. I also have this mentality where I try my best and leave no regrets. If it does not work out, then that is that. I leave no regrets. So I guess if I do have courage, that is where it comes from”

So, this is my advice to all my young readers including my daughter Lavanya who has just passed out her B.Arch and to my son Mithun who is in the tenth class:

“Have a dream. Try your best and leave no regrets!”

Dubai, 19th August 2009.

Sankaranatha Jyotsar

2009-08-17T05:26:00.000-07:00

Sankaranatha Jyotsar ,also known as Sankaranathan Unithiri or Shankar Nath Joshi) was a proud son of Kerala who was the chief astrologer and spiritual advisor to Maharajah Ranjit Singh, the lion of Punjab who single handedly built the great Sikh empire and whose right arm adorned the fabled Koh-i-Nur diamond. There are scant references in our history or other books about this remarkable man who was a courtier in one of the most dazzling royal courts in history.

The only credible and authoritative source about Sankaranatha Jyotsar, I could find from sources outside Kerala, was from the link http://www.esikhs.com/articles/a_retrospect.htm under the chapter “The Sikhs - Images of a Heritage” written by T.S.Randhawa.

“The other dramatis personae in the court of Maharaja Ranjit Singh were the Fakir Aziz-ud-din, his Foreign Affairs Minister---- Shankar Nath Joshi, the chief astrologer to Maharaja Ranjit Singh, who was from Travancore and returned there when the bloodbaths started at Lahore”

Maharaja Ranjit Singh (1780-1839)

Besides the above, the site on Swati Tirunal by Dr.Achyut Sankar also has given a brief biography of the great man. http://www.swathithirunal.in/personalities/SankaranathaJosyer.htm)

There is a chapter on Sankaranatha Jyotsar in the Malayalam book by name “Vadakkan Eithihyamala” by Vanidas, Elayavoor, a fine scholar and teacher of Malabar. Much of the information here apparently is from legends sourced from family members. I have relied much on him for the information contained in this post.

Ranjit Singh built a great Sikh empire during the early years of the nineteenth century when the British expanded its territories by conquest or annexation reaching the borders of Punjab.The British could not claim full control over the Indian subcontinent till the fall of Punjab which happened only after the death of Ranjit Singh in 1839. The Second Anglo-Sikh War (1848-49), between the Sikh Empire and the British Empire resulted in the annexation of Punjab which became the North West Frontier Province under the East India Company.

Birth

The last decade of the 18th century was one full of fear and insecurity for the people of Malabar. Tippu Sultan was holding his military campaigns for expanding his empire. Many families from Malabar fled to the safer shores of Travancore. Parvathi Amma belonging to the Vengatt Unithiri family of Karivellur and her husband Agni Sharman Nampoothiri of Perinchelloor pattodam Illam were a couple who too were part of this exodus. Parvathi Amma was into last stages of pregnancy and the tedious journey took its toll and she gave birth to a son while resting in a temple for the night.

Sankaranatha was thus born on the 16th of July 1790. His mother was very intelligent and was a scholar in Sanskrit. She wanted her only son to grow up as a learned person. However, the little Sankaranatha was more inclined to playing various games than to attend to his studies. Desperate over this, one day she admonished the son wondering as to how an ass was born in the womb of a horse. Hurt by the remarks, the boy turned a new leaf in his life. He began to show exemplary inquisitiveness in his studies and thus began a life full of learning and wisdom.

Education

He was put under a guru Paliyeri Ezhuthassan, a renowned scholar of the times. He had different teachers for varied subjects like Grammar, Kavya, Alankara, Ayurveda and Jyothisha. He showed great skills beyond his age in learning the subjects and the teachers were often found wanting to answer his doubts.

After his early studies, with the blessings of his teachers, Sankaranatha wanted to pursue higher studies and to travel all over India in pursuit of knowledge by meeting different people. It was difficult for him to get the permission from his mother but his persuasions yielded result as he convinced her of the blessings that would come to the family if he visited Benares and bathed in the Ganges.

Journey

Proceeding to Kanchipuram, a city which was the confluence of many scholars, he stayed at the Kamakshi temple. Legend has it that he got an idol of goddess Kamakshi while bathing in the Palar River as per a dream he had the previous night. He knew that the daily worship of the idol would bring all happiness and prosperity.

His journey to Benares was interspersed with visits to many temples and meeting many scholars. Eventually he reached Benares and paid obeisance to Lord Viswanatha and conducted all rituals for the family and the forefathers.

It was at Benares that Sankaranatha started to learn the Vedas in an organized manner. He became a disciple of Varahacharya, a great Vedic scholar of the times. After the studies of the Vedas, he took up his Jyothisha-astrological- lessons in full earnest. His forecasts on the horoscopes were amazingly accurate and these made his fame reach far and wide. Rajahs, local rulers and chieftains sent palanquins to receive him at their residences. Sankaranatha amassed much wealth and used much of the money on philanthropic activities .He constructed an inn by the side of Manikarnika ghat known as Joshi ghat.

Raja Sansar Chand of Kangra

Raja Sansar Chand Katoch of Kangra (1775/1823)–near Dharmasala-by the foot hills of the Himalayas came to Benares and happened to meet Sankaranatha. Greatly impressed by the scholarship and predictive skills of Sankaranatha, the Raja took him to Kangra and appointed him as a scholar in his royal court.

Raja Sansar Chand of Kangra(1765-1823)

Kangra had been annexed by Ranjit Sngh by the treaty of Jwalamukhi in 1810.Ranjit Singh wanted to maintain the relations of cordiality with the Katochs. Till his death in 1823, Sansar Chand was allowed to rule over his territories as a tributary of Lahore. Sansar Chand had two daughters by a concubine, Gulab Dasi and they were married to Ranjit Sngh in 1829. Maharani Mahtab Devi Sahiba one of these daughters committed Sati at the death of Maharaja Ranjit Singh in 1839.

Meeting with Ranjit Singh

On one of his visits to Kangra, Ranjit Singh came in contact with Sankaranatha Jyotsar and was impressed about his wisdom and astrological skills. He invited Jyotsar to Lahore and appointed him in his court as the Chief Astrologer. He was also honored by appointing as the head of the scholars of the royal court and as the spiritual advisor to the Maharaja.

Court of Ranjit Singh

At the Lahore court of Ranjit Singh

Sankaranatha used to represent the Maharaja in many of his discussions with the British resident and often won accolades for his diplomatic skills. He was also given some villages as tax free because of the esteem with which he was held by Ranjit Singh. He was living in the palace quarters itself and used to accompany the Maharaja on his tours. In one of the battles of Ranjit Singh with the Afghans, Sankaranatha too accompanied him in military dress. During this outing, he got a wound on his cheek by the enemy’s sword and the scar was to remain on his face till the end. In that battle, the predictions and encouragements of Sankaranatha was of great help to Ranjit Singh and he was showered with many honours and presents on winning the battle.

Arrival at the court of Swati Tirunal

Swathi Tirunal Maharajah of Travancore, having heard about the genius of Sankaranatha Jyotsar wanted him to be brought to his court. Accordingly he requested the British government for the services of Sankaranatha. On receiving the request, Ranjit Singh realized that the honour and recognition that his courtier deserves from his motherland is of utmost importance and hence gave permission for him to leave.

Lord William Bentinck was the Governor General of India (1828 to 1835) at that time and he understood the special qualities of this statesman. Reportedly, he gave a certificate to Sankaranatha for his safe journey from Lahore to Travancore, addressing it as “’Uthama purush, Nirmala budh Joshi Sankaranath, the spiritual advisor of His Highness Ranjit Singh, the Lion of Lahore.”

Swati Tirunal appointed him as the judge of the Sudder court, which was later to become the high court. While serving here, as per wishes of his mother, he married Lakshmi of Cherukara house in Attukal. He served in the position for 8 years with great distinction. The maharajah had once written to Ranjit Singh asserting that it was a great blessing to Travancore to enjoy the services of Sankaranatha.

Maharaja Swati Tirunal of Travancore (1813-46)

Return to Lahore

Under continuous persuasion of Ranjit Singh, Sankaranatha returned to his court in 1835 and served him till his death in 1839. Though he continued to serve the disintegrating and tragedy-struck Sikh empire under Kharak Singh and Sher Singh, he was not comfortable and chose to return to the cooler shores of the south in 1844.

Coming back to Travancore

Hearing about his return, Swati Tirunal again sent for him and he took up the post of Fouzdari commissioner. (The East India Company's Courts were called Sudder Adalat and Fouzdari Adalat which exercised appellate jurisdiction, civil and criminal. These were abolished upon the establishment of the High Court after the crown took over.) His booksWhile he was a great diplomat cum statesman, his knowledge of the Vedas, Upanishads and Vedanta was incomparable. He had written commentaries on various holy texts like Njana Vaasishtam and Devi Bhagavatham. Books named Kasee-khandam and Gowree-thantram are also attributed to him. Many of these books are reportedly at the Manuscripts library of the University of Kerala as mentioned by Dr.Achyut Sankar. Maharajah Swati Tirunal died in 1847 but Sankaranatha Jyotsar continued his services under the illustrious Maharajah Uthram Tirunal with great distinction. The great scholar breathed his last on the 28th day of Thulam in the Malayalam year 1034 while preparing to proceed to the Padmanabha Swamy temple to have darshan of the deity. A trust called Sree Kamakshiyamman Trust has been formed by the members of his family at Karivellur in the Kannur district of Kerala. They unveiled a portrait of the great man on his 215th birthday in 2005. Sadly, I am yet to see a portrait of him which I badly wanted to attach with this post.

Dubai, Independence Day 2009

A Sage and a Disciple

2009-08-06T02:51:00.000-07:00

This vacation for me in Kerala was very subdued with many personal issues warranting my attention. Heavy rains were lashing across Kerala as I had seen only in my younger years. At Palakkad it rained incessantly during July and I was confined to reading in the comforts of our house. This time the books I read were mainly in Malayalam and were biographies or autobiographies some of which I enjoyed considerably.

Among the scores of books I read, some were most enjoyable because of the astounding personalities those covered. Integrity, commitment and simplicity were common traits found in great people and even in ordinary people who did great feats. Some of the books I read included the following:

Manasaasmarami by S.Guptan Nair, renowned writer, critic and teacher.
Katha Ithu Vare by D.Babu Paul, well known civil servant.
Ente Kazhinjakaala Smaranakal by Kumbalathu Sankupillai, politician and social reformer.
Smrithi Darpanam by Prof.Manmadhan, renowned Gandhian.
Sneha theeram Thedi by S.V.Govindan, Vinobha Bhave‘s disciple.
Kavikulaguru PV Krishna Warrier –poet- by Prof.CK Moossad
Thakarnna maniyum nilakkaatha nadavum – on poet Edappally Raghavan Pillai – by Raju Narayana Swami

Pundit Gopalan Nair- Sagely scholar- by P.Rajagopalan.

While each of the above books was inspiring and informative in many ways, I was quite touched to go through the biography of Pundit Gopalan Nair, a sage like teacher and great scholar of Sanskrit and Malayalam. Born in 1870, his productive years were spent as the Headmaster of Kollengode Rajas High School. He lived to the ripe old age of 95 and is best known as the translator and commentator of Sreemad Bhagavatham from Sanskrit to Malayalam. Originally published by Achuthan Nair of the famous Norman printing press, Calicut, it was subsequently taken over by the Guruvayur Devaswom which published it in 10 volumes. Bhagavatham contains the essence of the Vedas, Upanishads and Bhagavath Geetha that a prophetic mind of a Rishi is needed to comment on its various stanzas. Pundit Gopalan Nair, eminently qualified to do this stupendous work took up the assignment in his 80s under the advice of Bharathi Theertha Swamigal of Sringeri. He has also written commentaries on the Brahma Sutra and other holy texts of Hinduism. Dr.Radhakrishnan, as Vice President of the country had attended the centenary celebrations of Kollengode Rajahs High School and had warmly felicitated the octogenarian Gopalan Nair, who had come to the function as a guest. On his 93rd birthday, Dr.Rajendra Prasad, President of India sent the following message of felicitation which reflects the esteem with which he was held during those times.

14th April 1961
I am glad to know that the 93rd birthday of Pundit Gopalan Nair, a celebrated Malayalam writer is being celebrated by the people of Kerala as a public event. On this occasion I send my best wishes and wish many more happy returns to Pundit P Gopalan Nair.

Incidentally, Gopalan Nair was a favourite disciple of Vidwan Ettan Thampuran –PD Manavikraman Rajah- who was the senior Thampuran of Mankavu Kovilakam. He was later to become the Zamorin of Calicut and used to be hailed as Bhoja Rajah because of his encouragement to scholars and poets of the times.

In 1910, Gopalan Nair was working as Malayalam pundit at Rajahs high school owned by Vasudeva Raja of Kollengode. He was a friend of P P Braithwaite, an Englishman who was the Inspector of Schools under the eighth circle comprising Malabar, Kodagu and South Canara. Braithwaite was a remarkably inquisitive European and requested Vasudeva Raja for a personal Malayalam tutor to be sent to him for a year and Pundit Gopalan Nair was assigned with this.

Gopalan Nair left for Cannanore which was the Head quarters of Braithwaite. Braithwaite’s studies went on for 19 months and he came out first in the Malayalam examinations which were conducted after 10 months. Gopalan Nair has often mentioned about his unique relationship with this bright and friendly disciple possessing a serene and balanced mind and attitude.

“While learning Malayalam, Braithwaite was keen to absorb the essence of Vedanta to enable him to read and grasp the Geetha. As such, the mutual affection went on strengthening through our frequent conversations”, so said the guru about the disciple. While mentioning about the Englishman, he used words only like, “best friend, ideal disciple and great thanks-giver. “

Once, Braithwaite visited his Guru’s Kollengode School for one of its anniversaries. He spoke in Malayalam and the audience heard it with rapt attention and reverence which started with the preface, “’Njan gurubhakthiyil uthamanum, sishyanmaaril adhamanum aakunnu.”’- I am supreme in my respect to the guru but am worst as a disciple-

During the Delhi durbar of 1911, honours and recognitions were conferred on many and Braithwaite was appointed as Principal of the college in Ajmer. The disciple wanted the guru to accompany him to Ajmer. However, the household chores did not permit Gopalan Nair to accept the invitation and to follow his student. Braithwaite came to Kollengode to call on the guru’s wife and to take permission to leave for Ajmer.

While Braithwaite was serving in Ajmer, the First World War erupted. Braithwaite accepted the call of the fatherland and joined the army. He used to write letters to Gopalan Nair even from the war fronts. After 18 months of service in the war he was killed in the war and the tragic news came to the guru through Braithwaite’s sister in England.

These brief interludes in the lives of a sage and a disciple were very moving as I read the book. However, my searches through the net did not provide any additional information on P.P.Braithwaite except the following from the National Archives of UK.

Application from Mr P P Braithwaite for the post of Principal of the College for Teachers at Bombay IOR/L/PJ/6/709, File 419 2 Feb 1905

If any of my readers have any supplements to the life of PP Braithwaite, I shall welcome it. He indeed belonged to an era in which the pursuit of knowledge, humility, hard work and dedication were considered great virtues. People like him had greater ideals in life than the common folks of the present day of which I too am a representative.

Dubai, 3rd August 2009.

Travancore Cochin State Forces

2009-07-28T22:17:00.000-07:00

Lt.Colonel Mohanlal receiving a memento from Uthradom Tirunal Marthanda Varma

The latest news on the renowned Malayalam actor Mohanlal commissioned to the Madras Regiment of the Territorial Army as Lt.Colonel and his visit to the Kowdiar Palace to pay tributes to the erstwhile ruling family of Travancore has evoked considerable interest about the military past of this state.

Travancore and Cochin were larger princely states in the south, besides Mysore which maintained independent armed forces. Two Travancore infantry battalions were integrated into Madras regiment after the states merged with the Indian union and were called 9th (Travancore) and 16th (Travancore) battalions of the Madras regiment. Likewise the Cochin battalion became the 17th (Cochin) under MR.

Major-General Sri Chithira Tirunal H.H. Maharaja Bala Rama Varma of Travancore, GCSI, GCIE was the Col-in-Chief of Travancore State forces from 1924-1949 and of the Travancore-Cochin State Forces for the period 1949-1954.

The military history of Travancore is quite interesting.

Though the birth of the Nair Militia could be traced to the beginning of the 11th century due to the socio economic conditions of the times, the army on modern lines evolved only during the dawn of the 18th century.

The 9th (Travancore) battalion was raised in 1704 at Padmanabhapuram (now in Kalkulam taluk of Kanyakumari district in Tamil Nadu) as Travancore Nayar Infantry to be the personal bodyguards of the Maharajah Ravi Varma (r.1684-1718). It was on the forefront of the Colachel war of 1741 in which the Dutch were completely defeated by Maharaja Anizham Tirunal Marthanda Varma (r.1729-58), the founder of modern Travancore. Captain Eustachius De Lannoy, who was captured as a Prisoner of War in the famous Battle of Colachel was appointed by Marthanda Varma as the Senior Admiral (Valiya Kappithan) and he modernized the Travancore army by introducing firearms and artillery. From 1741 to 1758, De Lannoy was in command of the Travancore Forces and he was involved in annexation of many small principalities like Vadakkumkur, Thekkumkur, Kottarakara Kayamkulam Ambalapuzha, Kottayam,Changanacherry,Meenachil and Karappuram for the Maharajah.

Raja Kesavadas was the Diwan of Travancore (1788-98) under Dharma Raja and he contributed sizably to the modernization the Travancore army by procuring weapons from the Carnatic Nawabs, the Dutch and the English. He increased the number of European officers in the army and ensured the support of the British.

The Mysore invasions towards the end of the 18th century had definite effects on the military organization of Travancore. In 1795, a treaty was entered between the HEIC and the Rajah of Travancore on mercantile affairs and the defence of the country.

In 1817, J.Munro, Resident of Travancore took initiatives to form a disciplined Nair brigade assisted by Captains Mc Leod, Daly and Sheridan. The first and second battalions of the brigade had enlisted 1000 Sepoys each.

A report by Subedar Major Kumaran Thampi of the Nair Brigade dated 27th April 1854 regarding the Militia of Travancore –both ancient and modern- makes interesting reading and can be seen in the book “Socio Economic background of the Military history of Travancore “ by Dr.Krishnan Nadar, which was his PhD thesis .

In 1935, the Travancore State joined the Indian State Forces Scheme and the battalion was named 1st Travancore Nayar Infantry, Travancore State Forces. The unit was reorganized as an Indian State Infantry Battalion by Lieutenant Colonel H S Stewart who was appointed Commandant of the Travancore State Forces. In 1940, the battalion left for Padmanabhapuram and arrived at Military Station, Cannanore. The battalion served overseas in the 1940s. In 1945, Major General Parameshwaran Pillai was appointed GOC, Travancore State Forces. In the same year, the unit was asked to move to South East Asian Command. In Hong Kong, the unit was assigned the task of guarding Japanese prisoners of war, airfields and docks. It also looked after the repatriation of POWs to Japan. The unit left Hong Kong, disembarked at Madras and arrived at Trivandrum on 31 January 1947 (http://www.bharat-rakshak.com/ARMY/Regiments/9Madras.html)

The 16th (Travancore) battalion was raised in 1819 as the Travancore Nayar Infantry during the reign of Gowri Parvathi Bayi (r.1815-29)

The 17th (Cochin) battalion traces the origin to the Perumpadappu dynasty from the 15th century and is one of the oldest units. It came to be known as Nayar brigade with strength of 10 officers and 400 men with its function restricted as ceremonial guards at the Palace. It was reorganized as Cochin State force during WW II with one infantry battalion and one garrison company.

Shown below is the photo of the India Service Medal (1939-45), awarded to a Sepoy of the Travancore Cochin State Forces. This medal was instituted in 1945 and awarded to the Indian forces for three years' of non operational service in India

India Service Medal awarded to

1909, Sepoy Narayanan Asari
Travancore Cochin State Forces.
(From the collections of Murali)

Palakkad, South India,28th July 2009.

Be proud as Indians

2009-06-10T05:02:00.000-07:00

Of late, many incidences reported through the media stress the importance to assert our identity as proud Indians.

The media are languishing on the news about the attacks on Indian students in Australia apparently on racial grounds. Then there was the news item on the US Embassy in India warning the US citizens visiting India that all the country is susceptible for terrorist strikes and as such there is great risk on their lives. I could also see a report mentioning that Indian bureaucracy is the most corrupt among twelve north and south Asian nations in a study by a Hong Kong-based Consultancy.

All these disturbing and disparaging news call for better vigil and governance by the law makers of the country to develop a young generation of citizens who could excel themselves and who could be role models to the rest of the world.

While those of the rich could go to foreign universities for prestige and sometimes for pursuing higher studies in institutes with better facilities, the Indian government should develop centers of excellence in education. We have to throw away the remnants of intellectual slavery acquired during the times of our subordination by foreign powers. We have our IITs, IIMs and a few other fine examples of our academic brilliance. Modeling on these institutions, there is ample scope for developing centres of superior learning in all the states. Let us be gracious in making tie-ups with renowned Universities from abroad and in inviting good faculty from all over the globe wherever required. For example, we could always invite teachers for English, French or Spanish from the native speakers of those languages. This should be a priority of the talented human resources minister Kapil Sibal, a learned man who had left the IAS to join the judiciary, before entering politics.

Our rich and ancient culture should be the subjects of learning through which every Indian should feel proud to be an Indian. Modern science has taught mankind that discriminations based on religion, caste, race, creed and gender are stupid and that equality and freedom are the birth right of every child. We need to cast away the false notion that everything foreign denotes better quality. We should also be open minded in respecting quality and wisdom found all over the world.

The government should also reiterate our sovereignty and keep our dignity among all nations of the world. While following a policy of neutrality in world affairs we could be assertive in areas about which we have clarity. When we are confident of our security systems and arrangements we could always assert it with greater force and maintain it.

The government should be stern in tackling corruption in the bureaucracy. It should not be an area for negotiations in the name of democracy. Stringent punishments could come as a deterrent to route out this evil. The clean-up operation should start from the top echelons of the bureaucracy.

The history of the Indian Civil Service dates back to AD 1800 when Lord Wellesley established the College of Fort William and employees were selected through a competitive examination-and of course by the nomination of Directors of the East India Company- on the standards of the of Oxford and Cambridge Universities. They were sent for 3 year training and subjects like Ethics, International law, Indian history and Oriental languages were taught. The Indian Civil Service ("ICS") was responsible, under the Viceroy, for the civil administration of India from 1858. It was the backbone of the administration of the Indian empire and the quality of men selected was immaculate by any standard. ICS was reputed to be the most incorruptible administrative machinery of those days in comparison to any in the world.

After independence, the ICS was replaced by the IAS and allied services. The IAS/IPS officers indeed get the best of trainings and are equipped to handle the complicated issues of the present times. However, the character building of these officers should be a subject of concern to the government and the people.

John Kennedy and Indian Ambassador B.K. Nehru in the oval office, 1962

Braj Kumar Nehru ICS, the outstanding diplomat and statesman who was a cousin of Indira Gandhi, in his reminiscences had mentioned the following incident about an Indian bureaucrat who could not be influenced. (By the way, B.K.Nehru, Indian ambassador to Washington in 1961 was to succeed Mr. Dag Hammarskjold, the UN Secretary General, supported by west European countries. They preferred a diplomat from a non-aligned country and preferred Mr. Nehru to V. K. Krishna Menon, the Defence minister. Before Shashi Tharoor’s attempt, that was the close an Indian came nearest to the post of UN Secretary General.)

In 1930, the then Finance Member, equivalent to the present day cabinet minister, ordered a new carpet for his office and the cost was beyond his eligibility for such a purpose. Ganga Ram Kaula, then Accountant General, ordered that the excess amount be recovered from the member's salary. Infuriated, the Finance Member wrote to the Auditor General telling that he was not fit for the post he occupied. Yet no action was taken against Ganga Ram Kaula and in fact he was promoted as the first Indian Auditor General. Later he was also honoured with a knighthood by the government.

In the present context, we can not be certain about the action that might follow.

While we do have men and women of exceptional courage, integrity and honesty in our civil services we have to admit that we witness instances of eroding values and a number of personnel in the present day IAS/IPS have been found lacking the courage of conviction when faced with pressures or temptations. It is also a matter of shame to note that there are many corrupt officials in the services enjoying the political patronage and indulging in flamboyant lifestyles at the expenses of the common man of this country.

The government and the people should awake before these realities and take the country forward so that every Indian should feel proud to be one who considers himself an Indian and who is on equal terms with our brethren of other countries of the world.

Dubai, 9th June 2009.

Paolino Bartolomeo and Karthika Tirunal Rama Varma Rajah (Dharma Rajah) of Travancore.

2009-05-13T03:43:00.000-07:00

Filip Vezdin or Bartholomeo a portrait from 1793

Most of the information we have presently of our past are derived through the writings of travelers from abroad who visited our country from various times. The Europeans at large had the uncanny ability to record history as it unfolded before their eyes. They were also very meticulous in the details so that we are able to understand about various customs of ours as our forefathers practiced it. Missionaries like Samuel Mateer, Visscher, Spencer and Bartolomeo who visited Travancore wrote not only about the missionary work but also about the customs of the natives, the flora and fauna, Indian music, local governance and about the industries. Though we could find many a mistake in their observations and most often may disagree vociferously about many, we must admit that these were written out of their perspective and conviction and as such need to be respected.

In this context, probably out of my limited scholarship in historical matters pertaining to our country, I have noticed that there are very few factual recordings of actual meetings between the Travancore Rajas and the foreign dignitaries mentioning the conversations in the first person; at least not much are made public by the royal courts. Some interesting notes could be had from the account of Father Paolino Da San Bartolomeo, a barefooted Carmelite, who resided in Malabar, Cochin and Travancore, between 1776 and 1789, during the reign of Karthika Tirunal Rama Varma Rajah popularly known as Dharma Raja.

Filip Vezdin (1748-1806), with the monastic name Paulin of St. Bartholomew, a pioneer of European Indology, was born in a Croatian village of Cimov in Austria. He is the author of Sidharubam seu gramatica samscrdamica, the first printed Sanskrit grammar in Europe, published in 1790 in Rome.

He wrote numerous works on Indian culture, and in addition to Sanskrit also learned Malayalam, in which he wrote some books. At the request of Karthika Thirunal Rama Varma Rajah of the Travancore, he wrote an English-Portuguese-Malayalam grammar. The Rajah, enthusiastic with Vezdin's fluency in Malayalam, asked him to be his teacher of English and Portuguese in his palace in Padmanabhapuram.

His remarkable book, A Voyage to the East Indies containing an Account of the Manners and Customs of the Natives with a geographical description of the Country collected from observations made during a Residence of thirteen years, between 1776 and 1789, in districts little frequented by the Europeans was originally published in Rome in 1796. Two years later, a German edition was released from which we get the English translation of this interesting journal.

It was during a crucial period of Travancore history that Bartolomeo visited the place. Marthanda Varma, the founder of modern Travancore had passed away and the country was ruled by his successor, Karthika Tirunal Rama Varma Rajah. Eustachius Benedictus de Lannoy, the Flemish naval commander of the Dutch East India Company who was defeated in the battle of Colachel in 1741 by Marthanda Varma had later become the Valia Kappithan of Travancore army. He modernized the army and helped Marthanda Varma and later Karthika Thirunal to annex many principalities to Travancore.In 1764, the Travancore army advanced to Arookkutty, a few miles south from Cochin and the commander in chief, Marthanda Pillai, laid siege to the place which were completed by de Lannoy. Bartolomeo formed an acquaintance with De Lannoy at Kartikapalli in the year 1777 as mentioned by him in the chronicles.

De Lannoy surrendering before Marthanda Varma

Bartolomeo writes thus:

He drove Samuri on the other fide of the river from Alangatta and Codungalur ; aligned a small spot to the king of Cochin for his support ; made himself mailer of all the fortrefles ; put the king's troops on the fame footing as the European ; divided among them the conquered lands ; caused them frequently to march through the country with full military parade, in order to keep the people in subjection to their rulers ;and after Vira Martanda’s death, gave the kingdom, in which perfect tranquility was now restored, to the present sovereign Rama Varma, who had just entered the twenty-fourth year of his age. Thus ended the dominion of the petty Malabar sovereigns and princes: thus was humanity avenged; and thus were the crimes punished, and the licentiousness suppressed, by which this country had been diffracted ever since the tenth century.

Dharmarajah of Travancore (r.1758-98)

The Travancore Army:

The Rajah’s military forces consist of 50,000 men, disciplined according to the European manner and 100000 Malabar Native Infantry armed with bows and arrows, spears, swords, and battle-axes. He keeps two Valia Sarvadhikariakkar, the Vadakkemugham and the Thekkemugham. Each of these has under him four other officers, called Sarvadhikariakkar having inspection over four subalterns or Kariakkar. Under kariakkars there are Pravarthikar, Chandrakkar and Thorakkar or collectors of the taxes, overseers and judges.

“The troops are always marching up and down through the country, to change their cantonments, to enforce the collection of the taxes, and to preserve peace and tranquility. Public security is again restored throughout the whole country; robbery and murder are no longer heard of; no one has occasion to be afraid on the highways; religious worship is never interrupted; and people may rest assured that on every occasion justice will be speedily administered.”

The dress of the Rajah and his procession :

He generally wears a turban of dark blue silk; a long white robe, fattened at the breadth with a firing of diamonds; long wide drawers, of red silk ; and shoes, the points of which are bent backwards like those of the Chiefs. A Fabre is suspended from his shoulders; and in the blue girdle bound round his loins is stuck a poniard or Persian dagger, which can be used either for attack or defence. When he shows himself to the people in full sight, he is attended by 5000 or 6000 men, together with a great number of palanquins and elephants. At the head of the procession is a band of musicians, and two court-poets, who celebrate in songs his great achievements. He is borne in a palanquin; and the principal gentlemen of his court must walk on each side of it. In my time he was very much attached to the Catholic missionaries. As often as he palled by the parsonage house at Angengo where I resided two years, he always sent two of the gentlemen of his bed-chamber to enquire after my health.

The enemies of the Rajah

Bartolomeo mentions Tippu Sultan, Prince of Mysore and Mohammed Ali Khan the prince of Arcot as two enemies of the sovereign. Khan could make an attack by Tovala, a fortress near Cape Comorin and Tippu could attempt it from Palakkattusseri. Because of these threats, Dharma Raja was obliged to conclude a treaty of alliance with the English by which the Rajah was to pay an annual tribute of 50000 rupees besides providing horses, cannons, soldiers and rice during war times.

Bartolomeo further writes as follows: “He is an affable, polite, contented, prudent, and friendly man. On account of the integrity of his character, and his many good moral qualities, it is more to be lamented that he is so zealously attached to idolatry, and is so much blinded as not to perceive the value of the Christian religion. It cannot, however, be denied, that nothing tends so much to rivet the affection of subjects, as when the sovereign adheres to the established religion, and worships the deity in the same manner as his people. Rama Varmar never omits being present at the ceremonies and devotional exercises of the Pagans”

We could conclude that some of his observations are formed obviously from his perspectives as a missionary.

Missionary Affairs and the Audience of the King of Travancore

Pope Clement XIV by an apostolical letter dated 2nd July 1774 had recommended the Christians of Malabar to the protection of the king of Travancore. By the time this letter arrived at Verapoly the Pravarthikar had taken possession of some land of the church and insisted on payments of tax as others used to pay. The missionaries including Bartolomeo insisted that Marthanda Pillai the commander in chief and prime minister of the former king Vira Marthanda Varma had declared them free from all public burdens whatever. Since the official did not pay heed to the arguments, they decided to meet the king in person.

Bartolommeo’s delegation proceeded to Trivandrum on the 20th of June 1780 carrying with them some offerings to the Rajah which included two European paintings, a large mirror, fifteen pounds of red sandal wood, and twelve bottles of Persian rose water. M. Adrian Moens governor of Cochin and M. John Torlefs governor of Angengo had referred the arrival of the guests to the Rajah and hence the Diwan received them with all courtesies.

Now, we may read it in Bartolommeo’s own words:

He received us standing, and surrounded by a great number of princes and officers. Near him flood his son, with a drawn fabre in his hand •, and, in a shady place were three chairs, one of which was destined for the king, and the other two for me and my colleague. When we had all three taken our feats, the attendants formed a circle around us. I then produced the pope's letter, which I had hitherto carried in a pocket-book richly embroidered according to the eastern manner; raised it aloft; applied it to my forehead in order to show my respect: for the personage in whose name I presented it ; and then delivered it to Sampradi Kesava Pillai, the secretary of state. The latter handed it to the king, who also raised it up, and held it to his forehead as a token of respect for his holiness. At the moment when the pope's letter was delivered there was a general discharge of the cannon of the castle. After the king had asked us some common questions respecting the naval war between the English and the French he enquired of me, in particular, how long I had been in Malabar, and how I had learned to speak the language of the country with so much fluency.

“I have often observed," added he,” that other Europeans are either unacquainted with it, or, for want of the proper pronunciation, express themselves so badly that they can scarcely be understood."

I immediately replied that I had carefully studied the Brahman book Amarasimha. The king, on this answer, seemed highly pleased.

” What “said he, “do you read our books?”

This is the real and principal cause why the king, during the whole time of my residence in Malabar, behaved to me with so much kindness. He entertained the utmost reverence for the writings and religion of his people; and as he saw that they were studied by the Europeans, this paved the way for my obtaining from him afterwards many favours, which were of the greatest benefit to the Christian religion.

When the king had conversed for some time on various topics, he ordered his minister and secretary to give such an answer to our petition, and such relief to our grievances, which we had specified on an Ola, that we might return home perfectly satisfied and easy. For my part, I could not help admiring the goodness of heart, affability, and humanity or this prince, as well as the simplicity of his household establishment and way of life. At that time he and all the persons of his court, according to the Malabar mode, had nothing on their bodies but a small piece of cloth fattened round the loins; and the only mark of distinction by which his royal dignity could be discovered, was a red velvet cap with gold fringes. At our departure he accompanied us as far the door. Next morning the Prime Minister, Kumaran Chembaka Raman Pillai, sent for us to his apartments, and enquired very minutely respecting the behaviour of the Pravatkarer at Verapoly. Being informed that this officer, with the assistance of the Mahometans, had prevented the Christians from frequenting our church, he was highly displeased; and immediately wrote to the Cariacarer at Parur to remove him from his office as an inconsiderate man, who was little acquainted with the king's interest. A new instrument was expedited in our presence, by which immunity from all imports whatever was secured to our convent in future. The king then sent to us by a Brahman, who acted the part of household steward, and who was accompanied by another officer, a service of dimes prepared after the Malabar manner, and which was paid for out of the royal treasury. These particular marks of favour are shown only to such persons as give the king distinguished proofs of their respect.

Bartolomeo writes that Dharma Raja spoke English exceedingly well. Since Bartolomeo spoke both Malayalam and English, the Rajah sent his chamberlain Payyampilli Kurup asking clarifications about the parts of speech of the English language. Even though he had an English master to teach him, his explanations were not in Malayalam and hence he wanted better understanding of the grammar. Bartolomeo’s explanations were much liked by the Rajah that reportedly called him Guru and wanted Bartolomeo to be retained in his court which of course was resented by others. Before he returned to Europe, Bartolomeo managed to get a reply to the Pope from the Rajah through Payyampilli Kurup addressed to Pope Pius VI. In this letter, the Rajah besides other things assured the Pope that he shall protect the missionaries and Christians in general especially recommended by his holiness. Pietro de Vegas, who instructed the king in English, and who had the care of the correspondence with foreign courts, translated it into Portuguese and the Rajah subscribed it with his own hand. Pope Pius VI replied the Rajah through an apostolic letter dated 24th February 1790 along with his portrait and this was submitted to the Rajah on 13th May 1793 by Bartolomeo’s agent Father Franciscus.

“The king, indeed, soon after, took such measures that all the grievances of the Malabar Christians were redressed in the kindest manner; and he presented Father Franciscus with a gold bracelet worth 100 rupees. There is reason, therefore, to hope that Christianity on the Malabar Coast will acquire new strength, and be again raised to its former state of respectability. “

Second visit

In 1783 some of the clergy on the coast of Travancore imposed some fines on the Christian fishermen of their congregations. Resisting this, the fishermen complained to the king, who was then at Padmanabhapuram, and requested the expulsion of these ecclesiastics from the kingdom. In this context the Rajah sent a letter to Carlos Conrad, the bishop. He was sick at that time and Bartolomeo was deputed to meet the king.

“When I approached the palace, the king's guard of honour, confiding of 500 men, came under arms to meet me ; and formed themselves into two lines, between which 1 was obliged to pass. The king, who was fitting in an European arm-chair, received me with great friendship, and addressed me as follows:

“I have sent for you, Father, that you may settle the disputes between my Christian subjects and your clergy. It is my will that the clergy have a sufficient maintenance and a proper income for their support; but I will not suffer them to oppress my subjects by the imposition of fines.”

“Look,” added he, here lands my minister (the Sarvadhikariakkar Nagam Pillai), and there my secretary (Sampradi Keshava Pillai, devise with them what is best to be done, and then let me know the result."

Bartolomeo was at Padmanabhapuram for 16 days as the king did not allow departure till the dispute was completely fettled. Apparently it was the time of Durgapuja festivals.

“During that period his majesty sent to me every day the Kopu, which is a certain dish prepared in the Malabar manner. As the festival of the goddess Saraswathi was then celebrating, (on which account, as I have already said, the gates of the city were shut,) I employed a part of my time in observing the religious practices of the Brahmans. “

Bartolomeo took leave of the Rajah after 16 days and after settling the disputes. He also collected a letter from the Prime Minister Kumaran Chembaka Raman Pillai to the officer at Ambalapuzha on this. He was also paid 100 kalian fanam towards travel expenses and the palanquin bearers were paid from the royal treasury.

His following comments are noticeable.

“This letter of a Pagan minister may serve as a proof, how much power the light of found reason has among a people whom the Europeans call barbarous. It affords a specimen also of the policy and attention to the executive part of government which prevail at the court of this Malabar monarch. He has only to command, and his orders are immediately executed with the utmost punctuality. His ministers neither can nor dare have recourse to such subterfuges as those of the European courts An oath from the king, a small twig suspended at the door in his name, or mere confinement at one's own house, is a check upon the conduct of the minister, as well as upon that of the other subjects, "When such mild measures, however, do not produce the intended effect, the offenders are subjected to a fine, or to corporal punishment ; to imprisonment, banishment from the country, or perpetual slavery in chains. “

Third visit

Bartolomeo again visited the Rajah on 21st April 1784 taking with him the Malayalam, English and Portuguese grammar which he had composed and which was sought by the Rajah.

“Scarcely had the king heard of my arrival when he sent two young noblemen, Padmanabha Pillai and Payyampilli Kurup to welcome me in his name, and to attend me to an audience. I found the king in the Veranda, that is, the portico of his palace, fitting on a Persian carpet, and leaning with one arm on a large velvet cushion ornamented with gold fringes. When 1 delivered to him the grammar, his joy seemed to be beyond all description. In my presence he sent for the two lords of his bed chamber, before mentioned ; eschewed them the grammar ; advised them to study it diligently ; and represented to them how necessary it was that princes as well as statesmen, on account of their continual intercourse with the Europeans, mould make themselves acquainted with these languages. On this occasion the king presented me with a gold bracelet, a gold style for writing on palm leaves, and a small knife for cutting these leaves to the proper size. I received from him also a letter to the civil officer at Parur, in consequence of which he was to announce publicly that the king had done me the honour to appoint me one of the gentlemen of his court.”

Other visits

Bartolomeo again called on the Rajah on 8th of September 1786 at Parur for some more favours which were granted.

There was another visit in 1788 to the Rajah near Cochin the country seat of M. Van Angelbec, the Dutch Governor. The Prime Minister Kumaran Chembaka Raman Pillai had died, and was succeeded by the king's secretary Sampradi Keshava Pillai. In 1787, this ambitious Dewan imposed a tribute of 500 crowns to the Verapoly missionary establishment and the bishop was under house arrest till this was paid.

Bartolomeo wanted to see the king who was at Perumanoor, near Cochin but the Diwanji refused permission. Thereupon, he sought the help of Van Angelbec who arranged the meeting with the king.

“The king, as soon as I appeared, saluted me with great civility, and we immediately entered into conversation. All the magistrates and members of the council at Cochin, who were there assembled to pay their respects to the king, and to settle some business respecting the Dutch East India Company, were struck with astonishment. When I told him that our bishop was in confinement, he seemed quite surprised; turned instantly round to the minister, and asked who had given such orders. The minister endeavoured to exculpate himself; but M. Van. Angelbec, interrupting him, said, that bishops ought not to be treated in that manner. The king then caused a letter to be written to the petty officer commanding the party by whom the bishop was guarded, which contained an order for him to withdraw his men ; and the minister, who heard all this, seemed greatly ashamed. “

Bartolomeo’s writings thus capture very interesting moments of Travancore history of the second half of eighteenth century. On the missionary work, he also tells of the conversions he initiated.

“In the two years of my missionary charge that is in 1777 and 1778 I had the good fortune to convert to the Catholic religion forty-fix persons; these were afterwards followed by more than 300. “

He also mentions about a certain Thoma Mapilla, who had been once a Nampoothiri Brahman. It would be interesting if someone researched the antecedents of people like Thoma Mapilla to know the Illam or Mana from which he hailed and the circumstances under which he took the decision of adopting another faith.

A postage stamp was issued by a Cultural Association, Hofam Leithaberge, Austria in 2006, commemorating the 200th death anniversary of Vezdin. It is high time, we in India start thinking of emulating such acts thus remembering the remarkable personalities like Bartolomeo so that our younger generations could learn a lot from their history lessons.

Dubai, 13th May 2009.

Reminiscences of Vishu

2009-04-10T05:36:00.000-07:00

View from Chenganda bridge,Cherthala , adjacent to home

It is holiday season for the students and kids in Kerala. How they await with fancied anticipation the mid summer holidays! Normally the vacation starts from the 1st of April and extends upto the 31st of May when the onset of the south west monsoons is announced. The summer has started, but the greenery is seen all around. It is also the season for ripened mangoes. Vishu, the second most important festival of Kerala Hindus is celebrated during the middle of April, most often on the fourteenth. Harvests are over and Easter is round the corner.

Astronomically, Vishu falls around the Vernal Equinox, the day when the duration of the day and the night is equal over this part of the globe. As per Indian astrology, Vishu signifies the sun’s movement to the first zodiac sign called Mesha Raasi. In various names, the festival is known all over India. For example, in north India, the Punjabis celebrate it as Baisakhi.

In these recession hit times, immersed in multifarious activities most of which bring only disappointing news, I recall my boyhood days in Kerala which take me back by four decades.

I spent my boyhood days mainly in Cherthala in Central Kerala which had most of the traditions of the erstwhile Travancore, not to forget some Cochin influences. Our ancestral house is a Nalukettu, and this Kovilakam had been there at least for over two centuries prior to which the family apparently had migrated from the north. The present building inherited by my mother under matrilineal system is a century old building in the midst of over five acres of coconut gardens and many big trees. It also had three sarppakkavus -sacred groves for worshipping deities and nagas or serpents-with thick vegetation and many ponds spread all over the property.

One side of the Nalukettu

Sarppakkavu

Nalini Rama Varma, my mother -April 2008-

Those were the heady days of the communist movement in Kerala but the vestiges of the old jenmi system remained. For Thiruvonam and Vishu, the tenants used to bring offerings known as Kazhcha- Thirumulkazhcha, if you prefer to call so- in the forms of bunch of plantains, yams, ash gourds or pumpkins. In turn, the tenants and their families were given a grand feast on these festive days. Besides, they were often given money, paddy, coconuts and firewood. I remember the days when many of our tenants used to come with these offerings. Looking back, my modern education and exposure make me feel embarrassed about those traditions. But, on another note I bow before their warmth and feel much obliged to their younger generations even. It all makes me more humble. Never in my banking career spreading across three decades and three continents, from the level of a junior officer to that of a Director, had I been tempted to accept any costly gifts from anyone. I feel very proud of that.

As children, we enjoyed Vishu mainly because of three factors. Firstly, the burden of the examinations is over and we were ready to go the higher class on reopening of the school on the first of the following June. Secondly, we were going to buy all the crackers we enjoyed bursting on Vishu. Thirdly, the lure of the money also was there; we were to get our Vishukkaineettam –cash gifts in the form of coins- from the elders.

I and my elder brother, Vijay used to buy a lot of crackers and enjoyed this greatly. We always ensured cash-flow for this from our disciplined but kind mother during the bimonthly sale of coconuts from our gardens. We used to buy these in bulk direct from the Chettiars- the traditional cracker makers from Pallipuram, a nearby village. Though the bursting of crackers was indeed great fun, the initial thrill often oozed out and later it often turned out to be a big burden on us to continue. Our two sisters, Rema ands Maya used to make great fun of us on our predicaments.

Our dad always used to give the first Vishukkaineettam immediately after the Kani Kaanal- the first and early morning sighting of Lord Guruvayurappan’s photo with all golden accompaniments. Father always gave a gold coin- An Edward VII sovereign- along with rice and flowers as Vishukkaineettam. Of course, this gold coin was to be returned after sighting it. Later, we used to get a one rupee coin in lieu of the former. We also used to get Vishukkaineettam from our mother, grand uncles and other elders.

Those days, we had a young Karyasthan – a steward- by name Parameswara Panicker, who was a very enthusiastic young man with great energy. He was the man who taught us to ride bicycles. He was of great help in all household activities. Those days we had many big mango trees in our compound which he only could climb. (By the way, I was quite adept in climbing the trees.) His father was a renowned Mantravaadi- occult practitioner-of Pallipuram village. I remember to have seen him many times with his conspicuous nose like the beak of a bird, whenever he used to come to our house.

Vishu also was a time for banana chips, ripe mangoes, and guests. We used to have great fun when our cousins too joined the bandwagon. There were often new born puppies in the Sarppakkavu sheltered by a caring bitch. There were also many birds of different species which would have been the delight of an ornithologist. Our Sarppakkavus housed hundreds of bats which flew around the twilight times eager to get back to the branch of a tall tree for its rest. We also had many owls on these trees and I used to be mischievous in disturbing those unique birds using long poles. I now regret over the mischief and long for those tender times fully realizing that our life is a one way traffic and I cannot retrace my steps.

Goureegathram

Jackfruits in the compound

Mynahs are aplenty

Another bird in flight

Mannathippullu about to sing

Bats known as Vavval; it is a mammal

A python sighted in Sarppakkavu in 2007

Last year, I had been home during Vishu and spent some value time re-living the old days. I shuttled between Palakkad and Cherthala and Unni, my son said it was the best holidays he ever had.

Sindhu, my wife with her mother Usha Rani -Palakkad , Vishu 2008-

Today, sitting before my laptop in the desert land, with traces of melancholy, I recall the old times and sing with the immortal poet, William Wordsworth,

“There was a time when meadow, grove, and stream, The earth, and every common sight, To me did seem Apparelled in celestial light, The glory and the freshness of a dream.It is not now as it hath been of yore;Turn wheresoe'er I may, By night or day,The things which I have seen I now can see no more.”

Dubai, Good Friday 2009.

PS: All photos were taken around the ancestral house at Cherthala during last April. The last photo of my wife and mother-in-law was taken at Palakkad on Vishu 2008.

General Elections in India 2009

2009-03-31T04:39:00.001-07:00

The Indian Parliament

The general elections fever is catching up everywhere in India. All the print and visual media have focused its equipments on the candidates and their details. Every day we hear interesting stories of fundamentalist speeches, greed, lies and shamelessness of some of these candidates.

All unholy alliances seem to happen around. In spite of the proclaimed fight on religious fundamentalism, all major political parties select the candidates based on the religion, caste and money power. Apparently, the goons, thieves and anti social elements are enjoying a field day. Every party needs them; they have many axes to grind and many weapons to hide. Some of the candidates and even political parties conveniently forget that” he who sups with the devil should have a long spoon.”

Thanks to T.N.Seshan, the redoubtable former election commissioner of India, the candidates strive hard to declare their assets. Many candidates are multi millionaires apparently spending all their lives in politics. Some declare that they have just a few pennies left and possess only few grams of gold even though the people know that they are not as innocent and starved as they claim to be. Apparently, it appears that the right for freedom of speech rests only with the politicians. Recently the Kerala High court denied bail, rightfully so, to the assailants who tried to kill a rationally thinking religious leader. His crime was that he declared;” God does not have any religion”.

Seshan had famously said once; “We seem to have Titans only in watches not in politics anymore”. He could not have been more precise.

We do not find many politicians really helping the poor and the needy. Instead of going to the party office everyday to fight over mundane subjects, why don’t they spare some time to go to hospitals to help the sick or initiate cleaning those premises? Instead of taking to the roads every time for processions on silly matters, why not they clean the premises of the local bus stand and help repairing the roads? Instead of straining their vocal chords on platforms accusing each other why don’t the leaders take concerted efforts to fight the social inequalities? They have many prime issues to be attended like education to all, food, shelter and medical facilities. They forget that the father of the nation was walking through the villages of Navkhali on the night of the Independence Day applying balms in the communally disturbed areas.

Of India’s population of 1160 million, more than 800 million earn less than 20 Rupees a day and 300 million are below the poverty line. But the lawmakers for the country are rich; half the members of the upper house and one third members of the lower house of parliament possess assets worth over 10 million rupees. Some of them are fabulously rich by any standard.

We need to tackle many issues in India like human-trafficking, drug abuses, health care, environmental issues and juvenile delinquencies if we are to progress towards a respected democracy.

The law makers are to be people who care for the poor and the down trodden. They need to be educated people known for integrity, efficiency and commitment. While they need not be Gandhians or of any particular political party, they could certainly serve the country well by imbibing the spirit of the Mahatma. I dare say that even those good Marxists could absorb a lot from the lessons of Gandhi in these trying times.

Let our enlightened citizens elect their representatives most judiciously so that the dreams of the founding fathers of our constitution are truly fulfilled.

Dubai, 31st March 2009.

Remembering a great teacher

2009-02-28T05:44:00.000-08:00

Padmasree Professor Dr. R. Ananthakrishnan (1911-1999)

I happened to be one among the many of my generation who was not fortunate to join a career for which I studied. I did my post graduation in Meteorology from the CUSAT (Cochin University of Science and Technology) and despite a first rank and some options to pursue my research in some of the great universities in India and abroad ended up in the banking service. Going forward, I had my field days and I did have my regrets too.

I belonged to the first batch of the course from 1975-77 started by the University and had chosen it because I thought it would improve my chances of landing with a good job and hence retraced from a course in Physics which I had planned earlier.

Author in 1976 at University

In retrospect, the decision was good at least due to one reason that I was to study under a great sage in the form of Padmasree Professor Dr.R. Ananthakrishnan. Dr.Ananthakrishnan was a disciple of the Nobel laureate Sir C. V.Raman and completed his D.Sc, in 1937, under the guidance of the great master, in the field of light scattering.

CV Raman and his close disciples

Dr.Ananthakrishnan is seen standing second from right

In 1975, Dr.Ananthakrishnan was well into his mid-sixties when he came to Cochin University to set up the courses in Meteorology and Atmospheric sciences. He was the Dy.Director General of the Indian Meteorological Department and retired in 1971 as Director of the Indian Institute of Tropical Meteorology, Pune established under UNDP. He was awarded Padmasree by the Government of India in 1969 and the Raman Centenary medal in 1988.

He contributed scientific research work in every branch of Physics, with special reference to various subjects in meteorology. His book titled, ‘Climatology of Himalayas’ is considered a major work in the field. His research papers in the international and national journals run over a hundred. He also wrote the book ‘An Introduction to Meteorology’ which is considered their “bible “by the students of Atmospheric sciences.

While his scientific works were monumental even by international standards, I thought of highlighting some of the personal experiences about the great master we students shared while studying under him.

Dr.Ananthakrishnan was a teacher in the mould of a Rishi. He was thorough in his knowledge of the subject he taught and had no confusion whatsoever. Probably he founded his path like the sages who wrote the Upanishads who said, “’Nethi, Nethi” (Not this, Not this) till they realized the Absolute. I found the inner meaning of many equations in vector analyzis by sitting in front of this great sage. He seemed to enjoy the analyzis of mathematical equations. Going at great length while deducing some mathematical calculations, he would often say, “You can actually play with these figures “. To this great master, it was quite a playful act to solve big mathematical riddles.

He always used to inspire us. He used to assert that the purpose of education should not be to get an employment. He always yearned for perfection through dedication and commitment. I remember his oft repeated statement: “’There is always room at the top. Only at lower levels you see all the rush”. It took me years to imbibe the real meaning of his words.

He was completely a no nonsense man. We had never seen anything superficial and flimsy about this man. He never indulged in petty talks, gossips, politics or even matters of daily routines.

He was extremely simple in his habits. He used to stay in one of our hostel rooms in the University campus in the Foreshore road, Kochi with only the basic infrastructure in place. This man who was the direct disciple of Nobel laureate C.V.Raman and who was a renowned scientist of national and international importance honoured by the Government of India through a Padmasree was so down to earth that he used to go by walk in the evenings with a cloth-bag to buy fruits, bread and vegetables which constituted his simple food habits.

I and some of my friends like Thomas (Dr.KV. Thomas is now a senior scientist with the Centre for Earth Science Studies, Kerala) and Jose Antony (presently a Dean at the University of New York at Brockport) used to play many pranks and often peeped into the room of the Professor. He, in his abundant peace and sophisticated ways might be seen applying butter to a toast using the knife in the gentlest way possible. Otherwise, we mostly found him reading scientific books or journals.

We had an occasion which threw light into his infinite compassion to the poor. It also showed how far way he lived with his lofty thoughts wandering away from the daily struggles of life. One day while he was taking classes, a wandering woman came with a child begging for alms. The woman came to the entrance of the classes escaping the eyes of a watchman. Suddenly, quite taken aback, the Professor asked us to wait and went upstairs to his room. He returned with a handful of small denomination currency notes, obviously not counted, and gave it to the begging woman who seemed wonderstruck at receiving a large sum and left immediately with folded hands.In those days, it might have been quite a sum and we all got bemused to great extent.

He was a man with exuberance, zest and total dedication to work. He belonged to a generation of our great ancestors who believed in pursuing greater ideals in life and never went after fame and monetary gains. Pursuit of knowledge was the sole mission in course of which they strived for self actualization. He had childlike innocence too as reflected through his spontaneous laughter.

I remember an occasion when another guest professor Wing Commander KK Ramamurthy came to our classroom when Professor Ananthakrishnan was taking classes. They were old friends and possibly were meeting after long time. Both looked at each other, came nearer and went on with their loud laughter born out of surprise which lasted several minutes. It reflected genuine warmth, purity of friendship and childlike reflexes.

Looking back, I realize that I was naïve enough not to have known the greatness of the master. If destiny provided another opportunity to meet him I would sit at his feet and take fresh guidance in lessons to pursue excellence and to be childlike in accepting the ways of the world.

Dubai, 28th February 2009.